front brake caliper

[yellowmelos]

Hi Guys,

is there a method of removing the front brake caliper ??

the disk has a massive lip on it and i am having trouble moving the caliper apart enough to get it..... don't really want to jam screw drivers in there and leavering the shite out of it if there is another way.

[norfolknchance]

tap the side with a mallet to loosen the pads
then slowly tap from the bottom to remove

[yellowmelos]

yeah.. tried that.. just will not go over the lip.. don't want to hit it too hard.

bloody thing will just not go over the lip

[smartiedarkblue]

realy sorry to say this but a very big screwdriver is the only way, No need to be vicous about it just work either end front and back of each pad and she will eventually budge

[McF]

I'd recommend Norfolk's solution first - but you need to be tapping the outside of the caliper to push the pad against the disk which will in turn push the piston back in. It may help to support the inside of the disk while you tap

Personally, I'd get my large G Clamp out and put that across the caliper and into the open side of the frame on the inside and just press the caliper back in

Whatever approach you intend to take, you might find it helps to put a tube on the bleed nipple, open end of tube into container and crack the nipple open which will relieve the hydraulic pressure inside the caliper as you retract the piston.

You do need to check the working thickness of the disk, minimum thickness is 5.0mm.

If your pads need renewing and disk thickness is insufficient, it's not going to matter too much if you rive a screwdriver in there.

If you have time when you do get the caliper off, I'd suggest a good look at the piston and seals. The standard piston is prone to rust after time, and it could be a build up of crud or rust preventing it from retracting.

Wemoto sell replacement stainless pistons and seals for a reasonable price
www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/NTV_650_M_Revere/91-93/picture/Stainless_Steel_Piston_and_Seals_Front_Caliper/

Don't forget, there are two pistons in the front caliper and you'll need to retract both

Good luck and please report back!

[jup]

I usually follow Mcf's points, but also remove the lower mounting bolt and loosen the top one. Then the caliper will swivle upwards with some force, and clears the lip of the disc. Bit easier to pull off then..
And either put the pipe over the bleed nipple as Mcf says, or just remove resevoir cover and diapragm, both ways allow the pistons to retract eaaily

[yellowmelos]

I have tried the levering up option.. still got stuck, going to loosen the bleed nipple and give that ago....

or just unbolt the disk and take the wheel off !!! if that is possible

[Buzzin (^_^)]

Open the resevoir on the handlebars and slowly push the brakepads outwards (into the piston)
Don't be too gentle, but don't be to harsh either....if you're afraid of damaging the disc, put a piece of tape on it and place the end of the screwdriver on that. (don't forget to clean the disc before use!)
Always worked for me.....and I have had some nice brakes to fix in the past (ok, on cars mostly)

If the caliper is loose (off the frame) try pulling it to one side forcing the piston to go in...

[McF]

I'd urge a lot of caution if you're taking the top off the Master Cylinder and then proposing to meddle around with the caliper.

It only takes a small amount of movement to spill brake fluid from the reservoir and then there is a whole amount of tears!

Loosen the bleed nipple as described and lead the tube into a container. You will still need to take care not to knock the container, but if you do, the fluid only ends up on the floor not all over your bike.

If you do decide to take the top off, cover your paintwork and have a bucket of water and some cloths handy. Even then, you need someone stood up keeping an eye on it because while you're bending down working on the caliper......

If you want to take the wheel off and work on it, you will need to either disconnect the banjo bolt and seperate the hydraulic system, or take off the whole brake lever and hose set.

Don't forget, the pistons are on the outside of the bike only, so press them in towards the disk and wheel.

By the sounds of things, you will be best off with my suggestion of the G clamp and wind the pistons back in, after releasing the bleed nipple. Probably worth a piece of wood on the outside of the caliper to help prevent any damage.

If the pistons are shot, the seals will be too by the time you've finished and they're always best bought as a set.

In your position, I'd already be on the phone to Wemoto buying the pistons/seal set because I think you're going to need it!

Final option if you apply considerable force and cannot get the pistons back in. File or angle grind the lip away on sufficient circumference to allow the pads to clear away, then you're going to need to remove the wheel, remove the disk and trim all of the lip away (at the very least to ensure it remains in balance), but I also have suspicions that you're going to need to replace the disk too.

[yellowmelos]

I did loosen the screws on the res at the top but maybe not enough to break the seal. i have plenty of high absorbent elephant toilet roll to soak up any spilage.

handy tip for you all.. boiling water breaks down brake fluid !!!

so if you spill any, tip boiling water over it.. as quickly as possible.

just don't tip it in the top of the res !!!

[McF]

But have you managed to get the caliper off yet?

[yellowmelos]

Not yet

but going to try and have ago this weekend... need the front mudguard off so i can clean it up and spray it.

cheers again guys

[McF]

Get yourself a pot of black hammerite and a wire brush

give the fork brace a good clean up and a few thick coats of hammerite

[ED-CASE]

Use this "idea!" only if sufficiently DESPERATE
NTV on centre-stand, small screw-type car-jack under crankcase with piece of wood on top, raise front end so front wheel turns freely
Angle-grinder BUT fitted with fine-grit-rating "Flap-Type" sanding-disc
Vaccuum-cleaner hose end close to angle-grinder dust ejection-point (Cable-tidies?!)
Protective-gear on person, switch on vaccuum-cleaner, then switch on angle-grinder.....
GENTLY bring rotating sanding disc to bear on "Lip" on disc so as to cause bike front-wheel to rotate
SLOWLY abrade away lip [ONLY!] while wheel's rotation evenly distributes the ablative effect
NOW THE REALLY SNEAKY TRICK!!!
Having cleaned-up the outer lip first, [you'll see why when you try the first time...] then.....
re-fit the disc on the grinder, "Wrong way on" with a washer or two to keep it from cutting the safety-shield
With care, the "inner-side" of the lip can be removed.........................
OR
You could do the job properly, with care, and not risk feeling ashamed of being a cheat............
All the best
Ed

[yellowmelos]

If i can get the wheel off and can put the disc on my lathe and get rid of the edge..

still not had a chance.. will try and have ago this weekend