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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 4, 2011 20:13:55 GMT 1
its all very well removing the lip and continuing to run with the disc but i would be willing to bet that the disc will be of an illegal depth and will not pass an mot hence voiding your insurance.
All very well removing lip to aid in removal of caliper, but after this it should be headed to the bin not back on the bike.
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Post by McF on Feb 5, 2011 8:34:36 GMT 1
I had a similar issue with my first aNTy; the lip was sufficient to give a headache with the pads so I had it trimmed off after confirming the remaining thickness was above the recommended limit. I used a micrometer, but you can adapt a vernier gauge (I'm sure GvS posted a photo from his website, but I cannot find it now) or you can take two pieces of suitable flat material, measure their thickness, put one each side of the disk, measure the total thickness of disk plus flat plate then subtract thickness of the plates. and will not pass an mot hence voiding your insurance. Unless there is a suspicion, I doubt the disk thickness is measured on an MOT, they test the braking efficiency and make a visual assessment of the state of the disk, caliper and pads, mainly confirming that it's not too rusty or too worn (usually indicated by an excessive lip - which of course would have been removed!) Sod the Insurance - the issue actually is that an excessively worn disk could put your ar$e on the line. Under high loading it will overheat much more quickly, causing brake fade, the disk itself will be weaker with potential for it to fail catastrophically (crack or even shatter) and just generally spoil your day
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Post by yellowmelos on Feb 5, 2011 11:13:48 GMT 1
Well don't worry about insurance or MOT at the moment.... this is just a project and all things that need to be changed for mot/safety will be be changed eventually ....
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Post by yellowmelos on Feb 14, 2011 23:37:17 GMT 1
Well i finally managed to get it off by leaving the top bolt in loose.. still had to smack really hard to get it off.. and the lip is not that big..
rubber mallet and the bit of wood did not work.. normal hammer and a bit of work didn't work either... had to use a metal bar and the hammer.... may have screwed the caliper by doing this... Pads have had it anyway as the seals on the forks have gone and soaked the pads and everything else.
also one of the wheel spindel clamp bolts has snapped at the top of the thread... but this is not a standard bolt ( different to the other 3 )
but wont be needing the forks but will try getting the stud out anyway.. got some nice extractors that need testing... before i try them on a clutch basket that also has a snapped stud
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Post by McF on Feb 15, 2011 23:20:43 GMT 1
Well the good news is that you have removed it
Sounds like a problem of biblical proportions, good luck with that snapped stud
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Post by yellowmelos on Feb 16, 2011 9:22:46 GMT 1
Yeah.. cheers for all you help guys. much appreciated
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vtwinfan
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 168
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Post by vtwinfan on Feb 16, 2011 11:32:54 GMT 1
Good man, my type of mechanics, If it moves gaffa tape it , if it don't move wd40 it. ;D when using those stud extractors use lots and lots of heat. good luck
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