Hi Pythem
first - which ST have you got? I'm riding an 1100 and love it. I commute twice per month from North Yorkshire to Gosport (330 miles each way). Last year I clocked 16,000 miles and am on course for well over 10,000 this year. It's a fantastic bike and typically Honda - does what it says on the tin, without fuss, reliably and sensibly.
More important, how does aNTy compare? Well I haven't ridden one since Apr 08 (traded my running one in for the Pan). My riding demands were a lot less with aNTy (some commuting, but mainly pleasure) we were together for 2 years and probably did 8,000 miles in total and I regretted seeing her go.
Likes:
Shaft Drive - you love em or hate!
"Agricultural" - they are almost bomb proof, will run for well over 100,000 miles without major work. She can sound like a bag of old spanners but runs without skipping a beat.
Reliable - key in and turn it, press the button once and ride away.
Lightweight - you can flick em around, they're quick away from the lights
Comfortable cruising speed - very happy at 80mph (continental driving!
)
Economic - 60/70mpg
Cheap - there are some excellent models for sale for £700 (or less if you look hard enough)
Headaches and things to look for:
Gearbox - well used models have problems with (usually) second gear. Most owners just adapt and go straight from first to third.
Maintenance - can be a headache to work on engine - any job means removing seat, side panels, tank and air filter. Not a problem just tedious. To be fair this is the same for most modern bikes and compared to the Pan there is a lot less stuff to remove!
Front cylinder - once you've got at the engine, doing the rear cylinder is a dream but the front cylinder is more tricky.
High mileage (say >70,000 miles) models may need cam chains replaced. These make a loud rattle. Replacement is well within most home mechanics ability, but does involve skinned knuckles and a bit of swearing.
Electrics usually Honda reliability, but Voltage Regulator is in a stupid place (near back wheel) it gets clogged up, doesn't get much air flow over it and can overheat.
Wiring loom runs around head stock (on right side) and can chafe through wires.
Throttle cables, choke and clutch cable are all a precise length and their route needs to be exact around the headstock. If they are ever removed and not put back correctly you can experience problems.
A huge amount of electric string (wiring) is stuffed in the headlight. you will be lucky to ever get this all back in (the headlight shell is very shallow), so it all hangs out like an old woman's piles
which can lead to weatherproofing problems. Someone recently showed a solution involving a section of car inner tube (stuff the wires in, fold it over and push behind the headlight out of sight).
The lugs on side and rear panels to fasten into the frame can break off leading to rattles and loss. Left and rear Panels are easily available but right panels are like rocking horse poo. Many owners tie wrap them on.
Corrosion is rarely a problem except for the exhaust collector box.
Nickability
I'd say physical nickability is down to additional security you use. There is a steering lock, but use a disk lock, and stout chain to an immovable object. For extra protection chain a hungry rottweiler to aNty when you leave her
Desirability - park your bike in a pack of CBRs, Ninjas, Fazers and Ducatis and no-one is going to take your aNTy away ;D
Last thing the discerning aNTy expert will advise - confirm she is genuine. A smooth unblemished and dent free tank is an instant warning sign that she is a counterfeit. Walk away and don't look back.
True aNTys will always have a dent in the tank.
Good luck and please let us know how your quest progresses.