Stevey
Restricted to 33BHP
Posts: 69
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Forks
Jun 26, 2009 22:11:54 GMT 1
Post by Stevey on Jun 26, 2009 22:11:54 GMT 1
alright, i decided to be clever and replace the fork oil myself yesterday. i drained the old oil out first before looking at the top of them after advice from a local garage that the top of the forks would probably be a 17mm bolt. but turns out its a 20mm allen key job. is it possible to get a allen key this big or am i missing out on a trick here. Cheers
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sheekbiker
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 155
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Forks
Jun 26, 2009 22:39:33 GMT 1
Post by sheekbiker on Jun 26, 2009 22:39:33 GMT 1
Hi There, You can make a wrench by using a bolt with the right size head to fit into the allen bolt, if you are lucky you may be able to just put two nuts on the bolt and lock them up tight against each other then use a spanner on the bottom nut to undo the allen bolt. If the allen bolt is too tight for this to work you will have to get the bolt welded to a piece of suitable bar to form a sturdy spanner. Hope this makes sense to you and helps. Mick.
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Forks
Jun 26, 2009 22:52:13 GMT 1
Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Jun 26, 2009 22:52:13 GMT 1
Like Mick said, just get a bolt with a head that fits. Two nuts turned against each other will do the trick. You just have to realize that you have to slacken the top yolk tightening bolts first! (I nearly gave up....and then slackend them...took 2 seconds after that) Leave the lower ones tight so the forks don't rotate.
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Forks
Jun 26, 2009 23:24:32 GMT 1
Post by McF on Jun 26, 2009 23:24:32 GMT 1
There you have your answer this system works - very well!
Keep the length of the bolt fairly short, make sure your nuts are tight (oooh errr missus), top yoke bolts are freed off, but leave bottom yoke clamped up as buzzin recommends. Good luck and please report back
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Stevey
Restricted to 33BHP
Posts: 69
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Forks
Jun 27, 2009 0:21:33 GMT 1
Post by Stevey on Jun 27, 2009 0:21:33 GMT 1
right ill have to try and find a diy shop tommorow or monday, living away from home for a couple of months with my mates in hartlepool so will have to have a lil explore ;p hehe. Cheers lads and will put a post up about how it goes.
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Stevey
Restricted to 33BHP
Posts: 69
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Forks
Jun 27, 2009 11:49:30 GMT 1
Post by Stevey on Jun 27, 2009 11:49:30 GMT 1
right after hitting the shops today what we used a tape measure to measure 20mm was wrong and indeed was 17mm but we went to a local garage and got a bolt and nut that worked great. so we loosened off the top yoke as recommended and they were loose within seconds, measured and poured fork oil in one at a time then came the tricky part getting the caps back on, the first one we spend a good 15 mins on and if it werent for my mate i wouldnt of got it on, but the second one seemed to go in like a dream. then tightened up top yoke and replaced handlebars and clocks etc. but the problem seems to remain a bit muted than before but when i hold front brake in and pulse the front there seems to be a clunking noise coming from the forks/front end.
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Forks
Jun 27, 2009 23:23:41 GMT 1
Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Jun 27, 2009 23:23:41 GMT 1
Have you tried putting the front wheel against a wall and doing that? It might be the head bearing....and if it's loose it need replacement I guess.
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Stevey
Restricted to 33BHP
Posts: 69
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Forks
Jun 28, 2009 16:35:39 GMT 1
Post by Stevey on Jun 28, 2009 16:35:39 GMT 1
well i had a problem with it being loose and the local garage adjusted it as its a tapered bearing, so it may need adjusting more or replacing i will have to see on wednesday really. cheers
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Forks
Jun 29, 2009 11:27:58 GMT 1
Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Jun 29, 2009 11:27:58 GMT 1
Ehm, if I am not mistaken (I might be) the original bearings are not tapered. So tightening them won't fix the problem. Since those bearings are not very expensive, and tapered ones are better, I would advise replacing them if it hasn't been done before. A quick search shows that wemoto sell a set for a bit more then 27 pounds. Not the most dificult thing to do yourself.....but it's a lot of work though
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