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Post by james88 on Jun 4, 2014 11:31:43 GMT 1
Hello, First post, so thanks in advance! After leaving my ntv650 in a garage for a couple of weeks, I rode about 30 miles without problem and then my engine began cutting out every time I eased off the revs. Any thoughts??, I noticed when I finally made it home that the headlights were not working but sidelights and full beam flick switch were still working. I'm yet to look at the fuses but could there possibly be some bigger electrical fault, short circuiting maybe of engine kill or stand switch?
Thanks again James
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Jun 4, 2014 20:21:21 GMT 1
OK.... Not an easy one I would start by determining if you have just one or two faults. The headlight not working and the engine cutting out, may have one common cause. But you could also have two indipendent problems.
My wifes car has a complete double set of rear lights. Not long ago both rear lights on the left side had stopped working. Not thinking long enough, I searched for an hour or so for a common cause (broken wire / fuse....), which would make both lights cut out. You've guessed it by now: after some time I discovered that both bulbs had just gone.
GvS
P.s. Welcome to our forum
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ssray
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 158
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Post by ssray on Jun 5, 2014 12:45:42 GMT 1
First locate the main fuse and check its clean and not showing signs of melting, then find the connector to the altenator- 3 yellow wires into a white plug inbetween the engine and rear wheel, it get all crudded up and corrodes then try running her with the altenator disconnected- fully charge the battery and run like that Ray
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Post by james88 on Jun 7, 2014 11:14:44 GMT 1
Thanks for your replies, I opened up the fuse box and yup blown fuse for the headlights. (Although it seems that the previous owner had wired around what appears to be a melted fuse in what should be the fuse slot for the headlights) I took your advice and unhooked the alternator and was almost ecstatic when she started up and remained idle for more than a few seconds but as soon as I applied further throttle she cut out. It then became increasingly more difficult to start the engine and when she started if I wasn't revving the engine, it would simply die. Any more thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I do own the Haynes manual and am currently working my way through it, but my technical know-how is fairly limited.
Checked again today and the fuel pump seems to be in working order. I did notice some small froth/bubbles in the oil at end of dipstick... water possibly leaking from head gasket?
This was the last fix I did after being caught 100 miles from home with a pillion passenger and a snapped footpeg. Just so you know who you're dealing with
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ssray
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 158
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Post by ssray on Jun 9, 2014 19:35:37 GMT 1
If I`d have known you were a peeler.....
With the reg/rec disconnected the battery will not charge, can you confirm that with the reg/rec connected it still runs like crap/won`t start?
have you got a multimeter?
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Post by james88 on Jun 10, 2014 10:21:33 GMT 1
Yes I'm still having problems. I could access one over the weekend, what would you suggest I test. I did adjust the engine idle speed and I can get the bike to run without stalling but the engine doesn't sound at all healthy. Thanks again
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Post by oddjob1 on Jun 11, 2014 18:10:52 GMT 1
i had similar problem when i put front fairing on..bike would cut out every time i used indicators or headlight..a wire to indicator bulb had worked itself loose and was shorting on frame
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Post by james88 on Jun 12, 2014 21:02:52 GMT 1
I've followed most of the wires around the bike and everything seems to be connected, I took the tank off today and had a look at the spark plugs, signs of 'carbon fouling' on both and a small bit of oil on one. (not in horrendous condition)
Could I be over complicating things- my throttle does feel odd (not snapping shut) Is there any chance the throttle cable has perhaps become frayed/slack (could that inexplicably happen)I've tightened as far as it will go grip end and tomorrow I'll tighten at carburettor end, but would anyone recommend just buying a new cable.
I'm hoping that the engine sounding dodgy before was just a result of me playing with the engine idle speed.
There should really be a hands on introduction to bike maintenance as part of bike tests. It's all really interesting and my knowledge is far from sufficient. I remember being asked about drive chain tension on my test... yet to use that nugget
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gills
Bad ass biker
Posts: 262
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Post by gills on Jun 12, 2014 21:45:19 GMT 1
If your throttles are not snapping shut you'll have to see to them before MoT time. If they're not too bad lubricating should get them moving, otherwise it's new ones. It made a big difference to the feel of mine when I finally bit the bullet and bought a pair!
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ssray
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 158
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Post by ssray on Jun 13, 2014 6:07:50 GMT 1
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Post by ploddit on Jun 18, 2014 12:42:40 GMT 1
Sounds more fuel to me.
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