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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 17, 2012 23:10:51 GMT 1
Just back from having my bike worked on again this evening, down at Future racing in Poole. Yet again the dust caps on my breaks were a 'B...@' to get out. Tip is bin the dust cap and replace the bolt with a Brake Pad Pin. No need to put the dust cap back it as a hex bolt head is now easy to access for future maintenance. Top mechanics and they even do mail order, I will be adding links on the website soon. but for now. www.futureracinguk.com/product.asp?strParents=197&CAT_ID=705&P_ID=2822 |
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Post by McF on Jan 18, 2012 9:13:14 GMT 1
[quote author=rj2para board=clubbar thread=2555 post=15599 time=1326838251replace the bolt with a Brake Pad Pin.[/quote]
are they stainless steel?
I hope so because they would be perfect
If in doubt and you have the pin out, try a magnet on it. The magnet will stick to horrible rusty mild steel whereas it will not stick to good old keep shiney and never rust stainless
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 18, 2012 23:39:15 GMT 1
"are they stainless steel?"
Checking.
I will know by tomorrow evening one way or the other.
Initial thoughts is they will still be an advantage.
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 21, 2012 15:01:02 GMT 1
Re "Stainless query"
Mine are not but will make regular maintenance much easier.
Stainless ones are available with the added risk of them corroding in should there be a reaction between the bolt and the caliper.
Shape and ease of extraction works for me.
Metal type is up to you.
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Post by McF on Jan 21, 2012 17:44:28 GMT 1
Stainless ones are available with the added risk of them corroding in should there be a reaction between the bolt and the caliper. You are a lot more likely to get differential corrosion between mild steel and alloy than stainless steel and alloy. copper slip on the threads before assembly helps considerably (whatever material the bolt is) although there has been debate for many years that introducing copper into the alloy and then nipping it up with steel (mild or stainless) produces an electrolytic reaction that corrodes the alloy. I do have an element of OCD (largely built from bad experiences) that requires me to replace every mild steel nut and bolt with stainless |
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Jan 21, 2012 17:58:42 GMT 1
I think the original brake pad pins (I think that is the part we're discussing) has some kind of surface treatment to prevent corrosion. Only where the surface of this pin is worn (due to contact with the pads) will you find some corrosion. But then, any corrosion will also wear off due to contact with the pads. Personally, I don't like to make any changes to such an important part of the bike. The engineers from Honda have thought long & hard about this design. Why should we make any changes ? GvS www.stoeretassen.nl/My_NTV650/Remmen/Brakes |
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 21, 2012 19:15:46 GMT 1
GvS, Makes a good point. "It was designed that way so why change it." As with all changes and suggestion on this forum, thsi comes a health warning. Only make the changes you feel are safe or ask your mechanic. On my bike I have replaced Pad pinplug 1 and Pad pin 2 as seen in the diagram on GvS's great website below. (well worth a read) www.stoeretassen.nl/My_NTV650/Remmen/BrakesThe choice, is yours as they say.  . Ride safe Rj. |
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