cam-chain tension & setting & maintenance?

[ED-CASE]

Hi, guys, maybe I'm dozy, maybe my idea is obsolete?
I have searched Haynes, found no mention of adjusting the cam-chain tensioners
Is it possible the NTV650 cam-chain tensioners are maintenance-free?
If not, (as I suspect), how, how often, any advice?
Many thanks
Ed

[kirriepete]

One of the few Honda auto tensioners that actually work properly first time (mind you they had enough practice with the CX to get it right!).

If your camchain starts to rattle it's probably stretched beyond the limits & needs replacing.

Relax & enjoy your minimal maintenance machine!

[ED-CASE]

Yer a star, kirriepete
Many thanks
All the best
Ed

[McF]

Your aNTy's cam chains are auto tensioned courtsey of the patented "ACME miracle tensioners" - they do exactly what it says on the tin and without input from human hand or spanner!

It's pretty easy to check if your cam chains are beyond their service limit, in your Haynes manual, read through section 2:10 and note the photo 8.3a which shows a wedge at the top of the tensioner. As the chains become more worn, the wedge protudes further until it reaches the recommended limit (6mm).

Simply remove rocker cover (after seat, side panels, tank and air filter!!); you should really have each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both cam lobes pointing down) when you do this according to the book.

[McF]

PS - I'd expect 60k miles from a set of cam chains (there are two, one for each cylinder, both are individually tensioned) before they needed replacing. Depending on the rider, (harsh or not!) this may be a lot sooner, or a long time later.

[ED-CASE]

Right, then, Sir!
I'll ad that to the "Right Now" list
Speedo shows 40K, general condition is either direly heavy miles or much more of them
Serious wear in lots of places, which I'm dealing with in priority order
Very grateful, guys, again
All the best
Ed

[Buzzin (^_^)]

Just curious....how much work is it to replace the chains?
(as in, what needs to come off?)
Because I do think mine are due to be replaced soon-ish....but don't want to take the entire engine apart

[McF]

Hi Buzzin
no need to strip the whole engine and the job can be done with the engine in the frame, but as always on aNTy, there is a lot that does need to come out.

You will need new gaskets for clutch and alternator crankcase covers.

The Haynes Manual gives a good talk through it, but in essence:

Drain the oil, then Seat, Side Panels, Petrol Tank, Air filter all need removing (there's a surprise!)
Rocker Covers give access to the cams and top of the cam chain.

Then you will need to remove both alternator and clutch crankcase covers.
The Alternator needs to be removed as does the clutch basket.
Then you have access to the bottom of the cam chains.

I would encourage you to do one side completely at a time and start with the alternator side (Front Cylinder).

The main problems you face are:

Maintain true alignment of moving parts - in particular the crankshaft and cam shafts.

Releasing and removing the alternator and even worse - the clutch.

Both of these are torqued up well at the factory and loctite applied, they require a good deal of weight at the end of the spanner to get them shifted, but it's plain sailing after that.

Unless you have access to the proper tool, get a big (I mean really big!) friend to sit on the bike with it in top gear and both brakes applied, then try your spanner to release.

I've changed camchains once with engine in frame.

Good luck and as always, post news of your progress!

[Buzzin (^_^)]

Well....that will at least give me a change to learn how bike clutches work....I never figured it out so far (cars I get)
But it sounds like she will be out of service for at least a few days....if not more

[smartiedarkblue]

I will say this they are a pain in the arse. The haynes manual is good. but still............

Took me about 6 hours to change mine, If you are changing the chains you need to change the tensioners as well. Don't do one without the other.

take it easy
ed