Post by McF on Dec 30, 2009 23:21:20 GMT 1
I recently saw a question about removing aNTy's Rear Shocker, here's a quick "how to do it"
It's a pretty straighforward job to remove the rear suspension unit.
A Bolt at the top
A bolt at the bottom
A bolt securing the spring pre load adjustment to the frame
The problems only begin when you're trying to access the top and bottom bolts!
Tools and resources required:
Decent Tool Box with socket set and torque wrench; a 150mm (6") (or longer) extension drive
Beautiful assistant
Unending supply of tea
A camera - to take lots of "how I did it" photos
Put your bike on the Centre Stand (or you're going to have to figure out some way of holding the bike upright with the rear wheel off the floor - eg Axle Stands; Beer Crate
Seat off
Side panels off
Tank off - I'm pretty sure this makes access to the top mounting bolt a lot easier
Haynes recommends removing rear wheel too - I wouldn't bother as it means all the mess on with exhausts, brakes etc, but it does mean you have a lot more weight on the swinging arm when you
release the second bolt from the shocker. I normally use a stout plank of wood to lever the weight of the back wheel off the suspension
Unbolt the preload adjuster (the big knurled wheel) DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PIPE CONNECTING IT TO THE SHOCKER
There is probably a small plastic clip holding the pipe to the frame - remove the clip from it's mounting hole in the frame
Remove the nuts from top and bottom shocker mounting bolts Easier said than done because of access to them, so reflect on this with a cuppa served by beautiful assistant)
Support the rear wheel/swinging arm, remove one mounting bolt (it might be easiest to do the lower one first)
You may need to drift the bolts out - be careful not to damage their threads
With the first bolt out, lower the rear wheel/swinging arm
Remove the second mounting bolt then extract the suspension unit, taking care not to damage the link pipe to the preload adjuster, and keep an eye on the drain tube.
It will need to come out the back of the frame and I'm pretty sure once you get it past the mudguard, it will clear the rear wheel.
Time for that beautiful assistant and more tea ;D
Reassembly is a reversal of the above, make sure you get the unit the right way up
It's a pretty straighforward job to remove the rear suspension unit.
A Bolt at the top
A bolt at the bottom
A bolt securing the spring pre load adjustment to the frame
The problems only begin when you're trying to access the top and bottom bolts!
Tools and resources required:
Decent Tool Box with socket set and torque wrench; a 150mm (6") (or longer) extension drive
Beautiful assistant
Unending supply of tea
A camera - to take lots of "how I did it" photos
Put your bike on the Centre Stand (or you're going to have to figure out some way of holding the bike upright with the rear wheel off the floor - eg Axle Stands; Beer Crate
Seat off
Side panels off
Tank off - I'm pretty sure this makes access to the top mounting bolt a lot easier
Haynes recommends removing rear wheel too - I wouldn't bother as it means all the mess on with exhausts, brakes etc, but it does mean you have a lot more weight on the swinging arm when you
release the second bolt from the shocker. I normally use a stout plank of wood to lever the weight of the back wheel off the suspension
Unbolt the preload adjuster (the big knurled wheel) DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PIPE CONNECTING IT TO THE SHOCKER
There is probably a small plastic clip holding the pipe to the frame - remove the clip from it's mounting hole in the frame
Remove the nuts from top and bottom shocker mounting bolts Easier said than done because of access to them, so reflect on this with a cuppa served by beautiful assistant)
Support the rear wheel/swinging arm, remove one mounting bolt (it might be easiest to do the lower one first)
You may need to drift the bolts out - be careful not to damage their threads
With the first bolt out, lower the rear wheel/swinging arm
Remove the second mounting bolt then extract the suspension unit, taking care not to damage the link pipe to the preload adjuster, and keep an eye on the drain tube.
It will need to come out the back of the frame and I'm pretty sure once you get it past the mudguard, it will clear the rear wheel.
Time for that beautiful assistant and more tea ;D
Reassembly is a reversal of the above, make sure you get the unit the right way up