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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 21, 2011 22:25:03 GMT 1
hi all,
i have read the post regarding cam chains and the due time to change.
i know mine are well due with a measurement of +11mm/+13mm on the wedges and they slap like a sod at around 5500rpm, anyway my question is do i have to change the tensioners at the same time as to be honest i can do without the additional expense.
i know alot of people on here go down the route of genuine parts for every conceivable job, but as i have said in the past i am a skinflint and if something will last then so be it.
cheers
ed
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Post by McF on Feb 21, 2011 22:38:43 GMT 1
do i have to change the tensioners at the same time No clearly, you do need to check the condition of the tensioner blade when you replace the cam chain, but unless they're in a total state, you are fine to continue with the originals. I replaced a set of cam chains on my original aNTy; the tensioner blades looked hardly used - they went straight back in again. You will be surprised how much quieter she sound after you've changed the cam chains. Just take care to ensure that you align the reference marks on the top sprockets up correctly and then ensure that the engine does not get turned while you remove the chain |
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 22, 2011 23:20:06 GMT 1
cheers mcf,
thats what i figured, just thought i would check, engine not getting turned will be an issue though as i am doing the top end overhaul while i am at it,
Still its not hard to time an engine. priced the job lot for both cylinders at £240 all from david silvers.
hopefully get it done during a week off work in april. i would upload pics but no matter how hard i try to follow the instructions it never works for me.
cheers
ed
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Post by McF on Feb 23, 2011 0:11:35 GMT 1
i would upload pics but no matter how hard i try to follow the instructions it never works for me. It is pretty easy, once you know how. First, upload the photos to eg Photobucket (you will need an account) then copy the info in the thumbnail or direct link info box into your thread If you go for the direct link, highlight the weblink in your post and then click on the picture icon above (bottom row, 4th from left) If you're really stuck, ask an admin to run through it stage by stage with you McF Most welcome Ed You need to remove the clutch to get at the right side cam chain (front I think). You will need a big friend to steady the bike when you crack the clutch nut off and a rotor extractor for the left side Are you stripping the heads? |
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 23, 2011 10:30:11 GMT 1
Really? that cheap? hmmm ... I really need to replace my chains too (unfortunately). But I thought the costs would be higher....so I was looking around for second hand engines  What are the exact parts needed for just replacing the camchains? (like gaskets etc?) Does anyone know? |
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 23, 2011 18:58:15 GMT 1
hi all, i know mine are well due with a measurement of +11mm/+13mm on the wedges During the maintenance I just did, I also checked the measurements of the wedges on my bike. The wegde of my rear cilinder stuck out ±4 mm. The wegde on my front cilinder ±5.5 mm. I think the limit is 6 mm  So I thought that my front cilinder was due for a new chain next year or so, but apparently it's not really that necessary ;D Here are some photo's for those who don't know what this is all about: Rear cilinder:  How to measure the distance that the wedge sticks out:  Front cilinder:  GvS |
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 23, 2011 23:44:50 GMT 1
hi mcf,
the heads are getting completly stripped, down to the crankcase, she is getting treated to new piston rings, bores de-glazed, valve stem oil seals, valve re-lapped, and so on and so forth, i am hoping to find no issues with the big end bearings, however if there is a slight tap there then the crankcase will be split and new big ends slid in at the same time.
i have had 2 other engines in her in the past 2 years to avoid the cost of this both cost 180 quid, but they were worse than the bikes original engine, so while i strip her engine i will slip in one of the spare engines so i can keep using her and then take my time over the overhaul.
You know how it is if i leave the bike engineless then we are bound to have 2-3 weeks gorgeous sunshine and then nought for the rest of the year.
costs for rebuild from david silvers is listed below:
The prices are as follows -
Head gaskets x2 - in stock - £15.00 each
CYL head cover gaskets x2 - in stock- £9.00 each
Cam chain OEM PART - £39.00 Each or pattern type D.I.D £35.00 EACH - both on shelf
4x pattern type valve stem seals - £3.95 each - in stock
2 x Inlet valve stem seals ( original ) - in stock- £4.50 each
Piston rings std - £41.84 per set - to order - 3-5 days delay
O rings - £1.97 each - to order 3-5 days delay ( please check the attatched doc to confirm correct part ,i believe its number 12 .)
Postage is £5.85 .
As to grafs reply i wouldn't bother with a cam chain change if they are still that good, mine didn't start getting noisy till they were at 8.5mm, okay i have run the gauntlet leaving them so long, but hey never mind.
take it easy
ed
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 24, 2011 0:01:39 GMT 1
Really....hmmm.....perhaps I will leave them in then too....their exactly at 6 mm  |
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Post by McF on Feb 24, 2011 7:21:07 GMT 1
hi all, i know mine are well due with a measurement of +11mm/+13mm on the wedges Possibly a little excessive  I think the limit is 6 mm According to the Haynes Manual, it is max 6mm Really....hmmm.....perhaps I will leave them in then too....their exactly at 6 mm You're on the limit, but clearly they can go way beyond this. Are they making any noise? I replaced a set that were nearly 10mm. When I got the bike it made an awful racket and this was one of the first things checked. I thought "crikey" when I measured the projection, but Smartie shows this was nothing. Buzzin, the most expensive part are the two chains. It will take several hours (probably most of a whole day) to do both chains. I'd say there is no great urgency, but you want to think about a plan to do the job sometime over the next 12 months ( please check the attatched doc to confirm correct part ,i believe its number 12 .) Was this a note to you from the supplier, or did you try and attach a document to your post? Nothing seen in the forum. An excellent description of the work you're going to embark on, the price list is very useful Just as well you have the spare engine |
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 24, 2011 11:53:35 GMT 1
It's not really making any strange noises yet (well...it's an 18 year old bike...it's not going to whisper is it?) So, I'll plan the change for when the weather get's a bit better and when I have some time off. I just thought that when it hit 6mm I had to park the bike and not ride any more till it was replaced....(which is partly the reason why I have only used a bike once this year  ) Now I can enjoy the Revere again with no real worries Wellll....that's after I have woken her up out of slumber and replaced the rear tyre....and the exhaust...and repaired the fuel pump...and the rear fender (I still have the extender from GvS waiting to be installed ) |
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