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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 4, 2011 19:50:51 GMT 1
300 quid is an insult and should be treat as such, tell them to go and stuff it. Get the can of carb cleaner and have some fun. At the very worst you end up buying a set off fleabay anyway.
Just be sure to only do one side at a time to avoid mixing up the parts. you only need to take whats in the bottom float chamber apart i would leave the rest. there is no point in seperating them. or taking the throttle linkages off.
cheers ed
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vtwinfan
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 168
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Post by vtwinfan on Feb 4, 2011 19:56:23 GMT 1
Hi kirriepete, I use the Morgan carb pro balancer which work in a very similar way. As for accuracy, back 20 years ago I drag raced a suzuki gs 1000, and used the same balancers because they were far more accurate than dial gauges 5 x more expencive. the method of fluid and tube is more sencertive than the dial guage, well done for a fantastic post.
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Post by McF on Feb 5, 2011 9:17:11 GMT 1
A few points
do not worry about synching the carbs until you have the bike running. with them in poor balance, the bike performance won't be great, but at present, it's the least of your worries
We have seen many running bikes going for not much more than £300. It does sound like an insult, but it's a pretty good offer.
But please don't think of accepting it, you're much better off keeping aNTy and sorting out this problem.
Carbs from fleabay - the 600 and 650 carbs are not interchangeable, if you buy some new ones, make sure they're the right ones for your bike. It may be possible that the float needles etc are interchangeable though.
PETROL VAPOUR IS D@MN DANGEROUS. Make sure you work in a well ventilated area (prefereably outside), away from smokers, naked flames and other sources or potential ignition. have a clear and unobstructed escape route and be prepared to use it. If possible have a fire extinguisher handy. I'd also suggest working well away from any drain or other place which could form a sump if petrol leaks. I had to investigate an incident several years ago where a cup full of petrol was thrown down a drain followed a little later by a lit cigarette end. No-one injured but a lot of damage caused!
Dry Float bowl simply means that fuel is not getting through. If the front (best not call them left and right) carb is filling and working OK, you know that everything as far forward as the tee in the fuel supply is working fine therefore the problem is one of: The tee itself (blocked or crushed) The short length of fuel line from tee to carb (blocked crushed or kinked) The inlet at the carb (blocked or crushed) The float needle valve seat (blocked) The float needle (sticking in the valve seat) The float (stuck in the up position, or badly adjusted)
You can eliminate the first two by removing the pipe from the carb inlet, petrol should flow through.
Assuming all OK so far, you now have the awkward stuff to do. Remove the carbs drain both then remove the float bowl from the rear one. I would add another note of caution here - removing the drain bolt and absence of fuel may mean that the drain hole is blocked (unlikely). Take care with those phillips head screws, they're as soft as butter and were probably loctited in at the factory many years ago.
Take a look at the float assembly and make sure it moves freely and in particular that the float needle clears the valve seat. Confim the float height is correct.
Remove float assembly, then unscrew the valve seat. It's my guess this is blocked and you may be able to clear it with compressed air, but blowing back through it (don't be tempted to blow the blockage more firmly into it!). You should be able to see through the tiny hole; if compressed air doesn't work use a NON METALLIC poker - stiff nylon bristle from a sweeping brush, short length of fishing line and physically clear it. Take care not to damage the brass, especially the valve seat area
Hopefully you have now found and solved the problem, reassemble, take a well earned brew and go for a ride.
I'm not thrilled to hear that the bike garage got as far as removing the drain plug and didn't offer to follow the steps above. "Other underlying issues" doesn't convince me either.
Getting your carbs off etc will take you at least half a day. It's not difficult and doesn't need specialist tools, just a clean place to work, some patience and a careful read of your manual.
Good luck and fingers crossed!
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 5, 2011 11:48:20 GMT 1
i agree with what you say mcf apart from the takes half a day part......
Where am i going wrong i can strip off the bike strip the carbs and clean, re-assemble and get the bike synched and running in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours tops.
maybe i am missing something here.
anyway take it easy ed
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 5, 2011 13:06:48 GMT 1
maybe i am missing something here. The difference is probably due to the number of cups of tea that McF consumes during the job... GvS
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Post by McF on Feb 5, 2011 13:46:18 GMT 1
i agree with what you say mcf apart from the takes half a day part...... Where am i going wrong i can strip off the bike strip the carbs and clean, re-assemble and get the bike synched and running in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours tops. Half a day = 4 hours? that's not much difference and I understood that Gareth123 didn't have a lot of experience in this area The difference is probably due to the number of cups of tea that McF consumes during the job... GvS Indeed ;D
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Post by gareth123 on Feb 5, 2011 16:49:54 GMT 1
Hi guys well, I have done the carbs and got fed up with it for today so I'm going to give it a run and see how it is. If it runs then get in!, if not then it's gone because i've already spent 25% of what I paid for it and I don't want to lose any more money on it. i've got a friend that is selling his ntv because he's just got a '11 zx10r so I won't be leaving the clan . I'm offering this bike to any of you if you would like it before I off load it. It's taxed and tested, needs new front disc and left fork seal is weeping other wise it's the current problem. so spares or repairs, offer away. Thanks to everyone for their help, and I apologise for giving up but I need a working bike for job interviews. G.
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sheekbiker
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 155
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Post by sheekbiker on Feb 6, 2011 1:26:55 GMT 1
Hi thinking about the carb problem it can't be that techy first we know that the pump is pushing fuel up to the carbs as the other one is fine. It has to be a blockage either through dirt or mechanical so it could be that the float valve is stuck closed or the float is stuck in the up position holding the needle shut. The fuel delivery pipe runs up between the carbs, if you can disconnect the end where it enters the offending carb join a longer piece of hose to it and place the open end in to a container now turn the engine over, it should pump fuel into the container. If it does then the problem is in the carb if not the problem is in the pipe, it could have got old and collapsed inside. If fuel flows OK then see if there is a major blockage in the inlet stub (do not blow compressed air in as it could damage the float) If no blockage found you will have to remove the float chamber and check the float and float valve, I think this means removing the carb, you can remove both carbs together and keep them as a unit so keeping the settings. With the float chamber removed check that the float moves freely and is not damaged, when you move the float up and down does it move the float valve hold the carb up the right way for this check. If all are free remove the float and float valve needle and make sure the inlet passage is not obstructed these are all the parts you need to clean if your carb is not filling. Just thought I suppose theres no chance that the drain screw is blocked and the carb has other problem IE water in the float chamber . I'll hope this is of some help. Mick.
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ED-CASE
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 172
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Post by ED-CASE on Feb 6, 2011 13:00:09 GMT 1
I found one intermittently sticking float-needle and one that just would not open on my "revived scrapper" (unless I [gently] used a bicycle-pump to pressurise the last run of fuel pipe from the"Tee") Got new ones from NRP andy@nrp-carbs.com Runs sweetly now (New diaphragms from NRP also, [mine were perished] but float-needles completed the job) HTH All the best Ed
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sheekbiker
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 155
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Post by sheekbiker on Feb 6, 2011 16:16:23 GMT 1
Ed thats great and another garage that aint going to get rich by lying. Mick.
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sheekbiker
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 155
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Post by sheekbiker on Feb 6, 2011 16:21:12 GMT 1
Sorry MCF I'd only read page one when I answered this problem now I find I was just repeating your earlier post. Must read whole thread in future. Mick.
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sheekbiker
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 155
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Post by sheekbiker on Feb 6, 2011 16:39:04 GMT 1
I'm getting confused how many of you guys have got carbs off I seem to have answered at least 2 people so far thinking it was the same person, put it down to my age. Mick.
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Post by McF on Feb 7, 2011 22:49:21 GMT 1
Sorry MCF I'd only read page one when I answered this problem now I find I was just repeating your earlier post. Must read whole thread in future. Mick. No worries Mick, it's better to get the story twice than not at all and it is good to have validation of the info Sometimes there are that many posts that it's difficult to keep up! One reason why we increased the number of recent posts to 30 when you select that option
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