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Post by gareth123 on Jan 19, 2011 17:48:33 GMT 1
Hi guys I have an '88 revere which is poorly. It starts up and is idling very low and the choke makes no impact. After listening to it I have come to the conclusion it is only running on one cylinder. I have checked plugs, air filter, fuel pump and drained the carbs but this has made no impact. The exhaust is making a popping every other beat instead of a constant rumble too. Any help would be great! thanks Gareth.
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Post by gareth123 on Jan 19, 2011 17:49:48 GMT 1
forgot to mention, I'm getting lag on the power when opening the throttle too.
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Jan 19, 2011 19:01:58 GMT 1
I would suggest giving both the carbs a good cleaning.
GvS
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Post by McF on Jan 19, 2011 20:42:23 GMT 1
How recently / how well was the bike last serviced.
Carb cleaning isn't going to harm at all, while you take the tank etc off, take a look at:
Air Filter?
Fuel Filters (inline plastic one near the fuel pump plus a gauze one on the inside of the petrol tank, on top of the petrol tap)
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 19, 2011 20:45:59 GMT 1
What Revs is it idling at? Mine is happy at around 1300
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Post by gareth123 on Jan 19, 2011 21:13:03 GMT 1
mines dropping below a 1000 and then stalling, i've had the tank off and cleaned the air filter with compressed air and checked the fuel filter. Taking a guess here but if one of the carbs was clogged with gunk and crap would that stop the cylinder from working? My tech skills are limited at the moment but I'm quickly learning. Thanks for the advice so far.
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Post by McF on Jan 19, 2011 21:54:21 GMT 1
600 Revere recommended idle speed is 1200 plus or minus 100. Yours could come down a little RJ
Gareth, if you air filter is the standard one, all that compressed air generally does is firmly fix the contaminants in the filter medium.
How dirty does it look? A little visible muck is fine, you will probably notice some oily deposit around the breather inlet (might be worth replacing the foam/gauze mesh - we've found a piece of scotchbrite (scouring pad) works OK there. It won't be causing your problems, but while you've got the filter in pieces!
Another daft job that isn't likely to help, but worth attending to. On your hands and knees look under the engine between rear of engine and centre stand (assume you have one), a series of pipes, one of which should be clear with a plastic bung in the bottom. Remove the bung and allow any liquid to drain out (it's part of the breather and often has water at the bottom couple of inches and dirty oil above it)
Back to your carbs - yes, each cylinder relies on fuel/air mix to get to it from its own carb. Inside the carb are several fine jets and passage ways. These can get blocked, but use nothing more than compressed air, proper carb cleaner or petrol to clean them out.
Do you know much about your aNTy's recent history? If she has been sat without running for a long time, the petrol can go "stale", carbs can get varnished up with residue.
It's worth trying to identify which cylinder is running. If you can keep her going (fast tickover, quarter throttle?) long enough to warm up the exhaust header pipes you'll be able to tell (not too hot and mind your fingers!)
I hadn't noticed earlier, you mentioned no response from the choke.
Take all the tank, air filter etc off and when you have access to the carbs the choke cables can be seen entering from the side. A single cable comes down to a splitter, which then branches and a cable goes to each carb.
Without removing the carbs, it is possible to remove the black plastic cap that goes into the carb and see the choke needle which is spring loaded. Operate the choke lever and confirm the needle extends and retracts (it doesn't move much), then check the other side.
Rather than a complete download of information, if you're having a serious issue, it's worth taking time and doing things stage by stage.
Take a look at the above and report back. Looking forward to hearing "Ta Da - fixed it and she runs like a beauty!"
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Post by gareth123 on Jan 19, 2011 22:19:13 GMT 1
Thanks so much McF, that's such a great help. it's been sat for a while and I've cleaned through the old fuel (not much was left in there) and put more fuel in, but I'll definately do the header pipe trick and then work my way from there. Bit frustrating that I've finally got it out on the road and now it doesn't work properly but I'm glad that I'm learning how to problem solve and fix it. Thanks again to everyone that's input, much appreciated.
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Post by McF on Jan 19, 2011 23:20:53 GMT 1
at least we're doing the problem finding in the winter months.
So hopefully you will be able to ride without issue in the spring and onwards.
It's always tempting to rush at a problem and there's sometimes a place for this strategy. This is beginning to sound very much like a need to do careful analysis and logical steps
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Jan 20, 2011 11:12:43 GMT 1
hi,
if there is nothing at all on the cylinder i would be going to source i.e. the coils. find which cylinder is not firing and then check the relevant coil pack, front is located inside of frame near the headstck, rear is located infront of the batttery attached to the plastic mudguard under the frame cross member (its a pain in the proverbial to get to).
it is quite probable that a connector has come off the top of the coil or where they join into the loom the plug may have come apart.
the syptoms of choke not helping would point to this area as it wont be too noticable on only one cylinder.
cheers ed
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Post by gareth123 on Jan 20, 2011 16:50:52 GMT 1
hi, if there is nothing at all on the cylinder i would be going to source i.e. the coils. find which cylinder is not firing and then check the relevant coil pack, front is located inside of frame near the headstck, rear is located infront of the batttery attached to the plastic mudguard under the frame cross member (its a pain in the proverbial to get to). it is quite probable that a connector has come off the top of the coil or where they join into the loom the plug may have come apart. the syptoms of choke not helping would point to this area as it wont be too noticable on only one cylinder. cheers ed I think you may have hit the nail on the head there. Just after getting back from canada after xmas tried starting my car a 2000 mondeo and that wasn't firing on 1 and 4 and that was down to the coil pack and it was doing exactly the same thing the bike is doing now. It's the rear cylinder that isn't going, the header pipe was stone cold after running it for 3 or 4mins. I'm doing that first thing tomorrow thanks so much to everyone and especially you smartiedarkblue!
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Post by McF on Jan 20, 2011 17:21:24 GMT 1
Good news then - you've identified where the problem is Now all you need to do is narrow down the cause of it.
It's going to be an awkward job if anything more than a loose wire, but at least you can swap the coils to determine if they are the problem.
As with everything on aNTy (and most other modern bikes), you'll be stripping almost everything off (oooh err missus) to get at the part you want to work on, but at least you'll soon become familiar with the whole set up of your bike.
Let's hope a wire is loose and it's quickly solved
McF
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Jan 20, 2011 19:52:07 GMT 1
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Jan 20, 2011 20:55:56 GMT 1
i doubt there would be a problem with the ignition as a whole as there is partial power there. it would be the most awkward coil though for you to get stuck into though, still like mcf said and i can vouch for several times over, most the back end needs to come apart. seat, seat cowl, tool box holder, undertray/mudguard but only the front portion you don;t need to remove the numberplate part of it. there are 4 plastic clips underneath it holding it to the frame and i think about 6 bolts around the sides. you can then wriggle it and with some gentle/moderatly severe persuasion you can pull the mudguard down and out to reveal the coil pack. Remember to remove battery as it makes it lighter and also unplug HT leads from spark plugs. and pull them though. If you have a haynes manual it will guide you through the process very well. If it is something more than a loose wire you can pick up a new coil on fleabay for about 50 quid cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ignition-Coil-Honda-NTV650-Revere-93-97-NEW-/370305334534?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5637eafd06or there are loads of second hand parts on there for very little money. Front coils and rear coils are the same, it is just the HT leads that are different, but you can change them from your old pack., hope that will help you out. happy hunting ed
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Post by gareth123 on Jan 25, 2011 9:27:13 GMT 1
Hi guys, I got a coil off a bike from a breakers and replaced that and put two new plugs in and so far it's working nicely. gave it a run yesterday and all seemed good. Thanks for all your help. Gareth
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