broken exhuast stud

[cb1300rider]

Help!!

Got myself an ntv600 ready for winter, decided to do abit of tinkering and have ended up breaking an exhuast stud. There is about 1cm of stud sticking proud of the engine case.

Does anyone have any ideas how i might rectify this?
Or are there any budding mechanics in the east midlands area wanting a couple of cases of beer

Thanks in advance

[odie]

Not a budding mechanic, dont drink alchohol!
Weld a nut on the end or get a stud extractor, where in the east mids are you?

[McF]

Budding mechanic, drinks alcohol

East Midlands you say, but whereabouts?

More importantly, which cylinder and which of the two studs?

I'm going to guess it's the front cylinder

If you only have 1cm exposed, unless you're very lucky, there is no easy way to do it while the cylinder is still in the frame.

It's worth biting the bullet and taking the head off, removing the cylinder and doing a proper job in the workshop.

I have a set of "Easy Out" Stud Extractors, but to use these, we would need to drill a neat hole in the centre of the stud and it all gets very tight and cramped with the cylinder in the frame. I've removed a few of these studs and the time you spend removing the cylinder is well worth the reward once you get it on the bench and access to do the job properly.

You could try putting a nut on the exposed thread and leave one turn deep in the nut to fill with weld then try and remove with a spanner. Heating the cylinder will help, you could even try penetrating oil too, but you will be relying on a lot of capillary action to get this "uphill"

One cylinder head gasket will cost you £18.49 at Wemoto, a top end gasket set will cost £69.50. If the top end set only includes two of
Head Gasket
Exhaust Seals
Rocker Cover Gasket
it's not much of a saving

To remove one cylinder is a job well within the abilities of anyone with a sensible set of workshop tools and can use a torque wrench.

You're probably looking at less than half a day to strip and half a day to reassemble. A lot of this time is the buggering around to get at the area you want to work. Provided you take care with the cam chain, there is no need for a lot of elaborate realignment when you reassemble.

The stud could be done in 30 minutes, or could take (I've been there!) several hours to drill out, pick out the remaining threads and then tap the hole.
A good working area, well lit with a decent mains drill, sharp drill bits and a decent eye is enough to make a good start.

I would recommend stainless steel studs, washers and nuts, with a touch of coppaslip.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress

[cb1300rider]

Thanks for your replys

Im in Derby by the way

I have been spraying the stud twice daily with penetrating oil without any luck.

Tried a can of the freeze and unlock stuff from halfords last night, still nothing.

I think the answer is going to be drilling the stud out. The thought of removing the head isn't a pleasent one i must admit. I came across this last night whilst googling :

www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/48228-drilling-out-busted-exhaust-studs.html

Any thoughts?

To clarify, the stud is the one at the front, as you look at the exhaust hole itself the right hand one.

Second addition, im full of ideas today - it might seem a long shot, but maybe a worthy one. Take a look at this for me and do you think there is a reasonable chance this might work

jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

I know it says "Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine components which normally operate at temperatures above 500° F" but i wouldnt havr thought a bike would reach that temperature, would it?

Thanks in advance once again

[McF]

Derby - you're not too far away from a few other forum members

The epoxy metal you linked to is good stuff, but it's not the material for the job you need. It's tensile strength isn't too good, but more importantly, you will not get anywhere near enough tensile strength where you join it to existing material - sorry!

The other link to the in frame technique is good; I have tried this and gave up - it's extremely time consuming, very awkward and the potential for it going horribly wrong is very high.

As you're needing to work on the right hand stud that is the more awkward one.

I'm afraid my advice remains the same - head off and cylinder out. It's still going to be fiddly for you, but nowhere near as bad if you try with the engine in the frame.

[McF]

PS - 500F = 260C

Normal operating temperature for the coolant is a little less than around 100C (Fan switch activates 93-97C)

I cannot guess the exhaust temperature, but I imagine it will be greater than 100C at the exhaust manifold

[wellsplattered]

I snapped an exhaust stud last year while taking the exhaust off to get to the clutch. In the end, after trying many techniques of heating and twisting, we drilled the old stud out. We then placed a helicoil into the hole and used some threaded bar. Many miles later and its given me no trouble. We did not have to remove the head for this, just adopted some awkward positions with the drill!

[odie]

I am in Borrowash and have a similar kit to this but its deep sockets: i10.photobucket.com/albums/a116/GarageofPower/repair%20jobs/100_0051.jpg
So i am able to put an extention or a rachet on the end.
Pm me if your still stuck