Front brake caliper removal

[pivo]

Hi,
I just tried to remove my front brake caliper, but I was not able to completely slide it off the disc.
I could move it a bit up and down, so it was not completely stuck to the disc. On the outer edge, the disc is a slightly bit thicker, which is I think the part that I can not slide the brake pads over...
Any ideas?

Ivo

[oddjob1]

i use a screwdriver to push back pistons a bit..

[pivo]

I tried to get a screwdriver in between the pad and the disc, but I was not really able to get it there. Also, I am a bit afraid of damaging the disc if I forcefully put a screwdriver there. Or is common to do this?

[blitzman5]

HI Try some eagle beck pliers the ones plumbers use

[JJ]

I took mine off last night a good tug with help of a screwdriver does the trick, and defo plumbers pilers to put it back on

[Jaz66]

just in case you don't know what plumbers pliers look like, either
( )

look here..plumbers pliers

[kirriepete]

BFOS* for removal (or an old tyre lever), but I use a g-clamp to wind the pistons back in for refitting - also comes in handing for reverse bleeding the system (fill the caliper, replace pistons, wind pistons back, watch bubbles come out of master cylinder, job done!).

You might want to check the thickness of the disk if the lip is that pronounced, having had a disk shatter on me when it got too thin I'm a wee bit paranoid about this!

* BFOS - Big F*** Off Screwdriver

[pivo]

Great! Thanks for the tips, I will give the screwdrivers another try. (and measure the disc thickness)

[McF]

Your disk sounds as though it is getting worn , so do check the thickness.

The pads are sat "inside" the worn part of the disk - there will be a lip on the outside edge that shows the original thickness.

I'd be very careful about doing too much levering around, a much better solution is as follows:

Get a fresh bottle of brake fluid plus the other tools and amterials needed including a bucket of fresh water and some rags handy in case of hydraulic fluid spills.
Remove the Caliper mounting bolts.
Remove remove Master Cylinder top cover, fit a brake bleed tube to the caliper nipple, then the other end of the tube into a clear container.

With an assistant, squeeze the brake lever and hold it in, then slowly crack open the bleed nipple, flush through some clean fluid and ensure the bleed tube is full of fluid. Make sure you keep the fluid level topped up in the master cylinder.
With the bleed nipple slightly open, squeeze the caliper back against the disk to push the pistons back in. There are two pistons and they're on the outside of the caliper. This will push a small amount of brake fluid back out of the bleed tube. Once you have sufficient clearance to get the caliper over the edge of the disk, close the bleed nipple, remove the tube and then remove the caliper. Wash off any hydraulic fluid.

While you're changing pads, make sure you remove the caliper itself from the mounting frame, check the rubber boots, clean and grease the pins.

The minimum thickness for your disk is:

NTV600J - 4.0mm
NTV600K, M and NTV 650 - 5.0mm

If you have a vernier gauge you will need to jury rig a design like Buzzin's www.ntvhonda.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=485&page=1 to measure the thickness that matters, not the outside edge

Good luck, hope this helps

[jup]

I have this problem whenever I change my pads. So my solution is:

1. Remove pad pin.
2. Remove lower caliper mounting bolt and LOOSEN top one.
3. You can then rotate the caliper unwards to help remove the pads.

Once the pads are out, the caliper will easily clear the disc 'lip'.

Occasionally I use a rubber mallet to try depress the pistons before starting.

And make sure the master cylinder resevoir isn't full to the top with the cap secured. If it is, no amount of pressure or hitting will push the pistons back in. (Took me ages to work that out one afternoon ).

Hope I've been some help.

[JJ]

Had great trouble taking off my back brake pads, pad pin was solid eventually got it off at a garage with heat of a welder, took a while but they finally got it loose. Need to buy new pin now asap.

[pivo]

Hi!
It worked out by combining some suggestions and a lot of patience.
I did the following:

1. Remove lower caliper mounting bolt and LOOSEN top one. (yes, it's a copy )
2. Use a screwdriver to push pistons in the caliper, and try to rotate the caliper off the disk.
3. Keep doing this for about one hour, making slow progress and finally it will work!

I also measured the disc, and it was just below the 5 mm, so I need to get a new disc. Any suggetions where to buy brake discs? (preferably in The Netherlands )

Thanks a lot everybody!

P.S. This brake caliper removal was just a step towards changing the fork oil seals, but more about that in a different topic...

[De Graaf van Salland]

Hey Pivo. have a look here: www.ntvhonda.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=partsforsale&action=display&thread=389

I've bought several things with him in the past & never had any problems with him.

And, apparently, the front disc for the old Pan European is the same as the NTV.

GvS

[jup]

Glad you had success Pivo.
Here's where I got a front and rear disc from:

www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/

Postage in UK mainland was £10, not sure if they do overseas postage. And £70 per disc (if I remember rightly)
But the discs are of great quality and fit perfectly. They were very nice and helpful to deal with.

[BlackHonda]

you could try this link - the shop is in Wormerveer above Amsterdam
www.japparts.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_86_93_203&products_id=1854