Post by Jaz66 on Jan 19, 2009 3:08:53 GMT 1
original post by sheekbiker
Hi All,
As some of you were interested in my bar mods I've moved this to the technical page.
Re the bar mods I have made I used a set of pattern Laverda Jota bars and a pair of 75mm bar risers these I fitted with 9mm studs to pass through the top yoke.
With the old bars removed you are left with three blind threaded holes per side and I drilled out the ones toward the front of the bike to accept the studs of the risers and secured these with nylock nuts on the under side of the yoke.
with the bars fitted and adjusted to my liking it was a case of fitting the switch gear and drilling the bars to accept the anti twist pins of the switchgear and rerouting the cables etc.
The bars in this position makes it awkward to insert the ignition key so I would try using the holes that are nearest to you to mount the risers or using Rask risers that clamp around the fork legs where they protude through the top yoke, you would probably need to raise the forks through the top yoke by a quater of an inch.
Roger I was a vehicle fitter for many years but this is well within the skills of the average DIY owner, studs can be purchased from an engineering supplies store or made from threaded rod but would not be needed using the Rask risers.
The Laverda Jota style bars are multi adjustable, they and all risers can be purchased from Busters or M&P.
The Oxford switch is mounted directly on top of the fork leg to give you an idea where the bars would be using the Rask risers.
Sheekbiker (Mick)
_______________________________________________
dpmiller
I fitted a set to my NTV and there wasn't a great deal of choice in the adjustment- even with a set of 20mm spacers the switchgear and the bosses at the ends of thee centre bit are perilously close to the tank. A bit of grinding was needed to fit'em safely.
That done, the riding position is much improved for *my* shape and size.
___________________________________________________
Jake
Just curious……
But supposing you used raask bar risers to hold regular
NTV bars (ie not Revere) rather than pattern Laverdas?
In theory switch gear would just bolt straight on and there
should be no problem hitting the tank. But you might need
to use longer cables and brake-hose…. Also pushing forks
up through yoke to hold raask risers might effect steering
slightly?
I don’t own a Revere so I’m not sure of the exact layout…..
Raask bar risers might not give sufficient height but NTV
bars look quite tall in comparison to Laverdas?
www.twenga.co.uk/offer/20515/6828680511584792685.html
www.mandp.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=handle+bar+risers
________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Jake if you have a NTV you have tubular bars as standard so any bar riser should work where the Revere has bars that are in two parts left & right which bolt to the top yoke.
I used the Jota bars because of the multi adjustment they offer rather than trying several different bars to get what I wanted.
My bars don't hit the tank when set for me but on my NTV650 there is very little clearance between the switchgear and the tank on full lock so risers would move the bars away from the contact point.
Sheekbiker (Mick)
_________________________________________________
rj2para
Sheekbiker (Mick)
Looks like a neat job, I gues the only other option would be to machine a block to go under each of the revere bars, but this as you say would lack the adjustment you now have.
Thanks for the pic.
Seems to have left space for other clocks and dials as well.
Roger.
P.S. I had to replace my fuse lid as it fell apart round the front screws. I suspect you may have done this already but in case. When I replaced mine from ebay I added a fillet of nonails inside in each of the front corners of the fusebox lid to strenghten it. Long term will tell if it works.
___________________________________________
McF
A swift word of warning (from personal experience) to anyone adding new handlebars.
Measure both sides of you handlebars before drilling the holes for the anti-rotation pins in the switch gear - they're very different.
I only measured one side, drilled the holes and then discovered the difference and had to drill a second hole
__________________________________________________
Jake
Sheekbiker…..
Correct…. I own a NTV with tubular bars and I’ve
already fitted 50mm risers some time ago together
with longer throttle cables, brake hose and clutch cable.
Job done…
But I was just suggesting that if a Revere owner fits
Raask risers to the top of the forks then they could also
fit standard NTV tubular bars as an alternative to Laverda
pattern bars….
Raask risers , would only raise the bars by around 35mm
or so, but fitting NTV tubular bars might be a better option
because they look taller than the pattern Laverdas.
Also, Honda NTV tubular bars will already have the holes for
the anti-rotation pins in the switch gear, so the switch gear
from the Revere should just bolt straight on.
www.bustersclassic.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=RAA
_______________________________________________
enrico
I have a general question for the connoisseurs, as I'm only a newcomer into the NTV world. Also, my English is poor so I beg your pardon if I'll use some improper terms.
Here it is: I recently purchased an '89 NTV and it has that kind of handlebar in two pieces, made of alloy it seems, say not the traditional handlebar made of a single tube of chromed iron. In most pictures of later NTV I notice always the tubular handlebar instead of twe "two-pieces" type (which is the one I prefere, I was lucky to find it on my bike). Questions are:
1 - does anybody know when Honda began to mount the traditional tubular handlebar on NTV ?
2 - why did Honda do that ?
Any answer would be wellcome, thank you folks.
Enrico
_________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Hi Jake yes with the rask risers you could fit almost any bars you fancied however you would have to raise the forks through the yokes by about .25 of an inch don't think it would be a problem.
Where did you get longer cables and for what model I may want to do that mod to my 650.
Sheekbiker ( Mick ).
_________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Hi Rogeer yes a nice big clock is handy as Annie is diabetic and has to eat at the right times and if she leaves it too long she gets the shakes.
Not to mention that with the shakes comes this really angry person who jumps down my throat at every word I utter just like the famed female hormone thing .
The black object on the left of the picture is a sat nav mount which uses one of the spare left over bar mounting points.
Sheekbiker ( Mick )
________________________________________________
Jake
Hi Mick……
Cables from the Deauville will fit including clutch cable,
although the Deauville clutch cable at the engine end of
the NTV is fitted slightly differently. Longer goodridge
brake hose was already fitted.
Got throttle and clutch cables from Wemoto for a
2000 Deauville I think, although I don’t think the year
matters…. (Latest 700 Deauville might have different
cables however)…
Longer throttle cables from the Deauville do stick out
a bit on the NTV and for aesthetic reasons some people might
not like this. Personally I’m not bothered. The longer
throttle cables are routed through one of the holes
in the headlight bracket on my bike, but the cables don’t
rub or foul on anything……
Enrico, can’t help you mate… don’t know what year
Honda changed bar arrangements, but in the UK the
600 ‘Revere’ always had non-tubular bars whilst the later
650 ‘NTV’ had tubular bars and different clocks
(speedo and rev counter). I think Honda made changes
because there were complaints from consumers that
original Revere was too expensive......
www.employees.org/~tw/deauville/development.htm
Hi All,
As some of you were interested in my bar mods I've moved this to the technical page.
Re the bar mods I have made I used a set of pattern Laverda Jota bars and a pair of 75mm bar risers these I fitted with 9mm studs to pass through the top yoke.
With the old bars removed you are left with three blind threaded holes per side and I drilled out the ones toward the front of the bike to accept the studs of the risers and secured these with nylock nuts on the under side of the yoke.
with the bars fitted and adjusted to my liking it was a case of fitting the switch gear and drilling the bars to accept the anti twist pins of the switchgear and rerouting the cables etc.
The bars in this position makes it awkward to insert the ignition key so I would try using the holes that are nearest to you to mount the risers or using Rask risers that clamp around the fork legs where they protude through the top yoke, you would probably need to raise the forks through the top yoke by a quater of an inch.
Roger I was a vehicle fitter for many years but this is well within the skills of the average DIY owner, studs can be purchased from an engineering supplies store or made from threaded rod but would not be needed using the Rask risers.
The Laverda Jota style bars are multi adjustable, they and all risers can be purchased from Busters or M&P.
The Oxford switch is mounted directly on top of the fork leg to give you an idea where the bars would be using the Rask risers.
Sheekbiker (Mick)
_______________________________________________
dpmiller
I fitted a set to my NTV and there wasn't a great deal of choice in the adjustment- even with a set of 20mm spacers the switchgear and the bosses at the ends of thee centre bit are perilously close to the tank. A bit of grinding was needed to fit'em safely.
That done, the riding position is much improved for *my* shape and size.
___________________________________________________
Jake
Just curious……
But supposing you used raask bar risers to hold regular
NTV bars (ie not Revere) rather than pattern Laverdas?
In theory switch gear would just bolt straight on and there
should be no problem hitting the tank. But you might need
to use longer cables and brake-hose…. Also pushing forks
up through yoke to hold raask risers might effect steering
slightly?
I don’t own a Revere so I’m not sure of the exact layout…..
Raask bar risers might not give sufficient height but NTV
bars look quite tall in comparison to Laverdas?
www.twenga.co.uk/offer/20515/6828680511584792685.html
www.mandp.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=handle+bar+risers
________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Jake if you have a NTV you have tubular bars as standard so any bar riser should work where the Revere has bars that are in two parts left & right which bolt to the top yoke.
I used the Jota bars because of the multi adjustment they offer rather than trying several different bars to get what I wanted.
My bars don't hit the tank when set for me but on my NTV650 there is very little clearance between the switchgear and the tank on full lock so risers would move the bars away from the contact point.
Sheekbiker (Mick)
_________________________________________________
rj2para
Sheekbiker (Mick)
Looks like a neat job, I gues the only other option would be to machine a block to go under each of the revere bars, but this as you say would lack the adjustment you now have.
Thanks for the pic.
Seems to have left space for other clocks and dials as well.
Roger.
P.S. I had to replace my fuse lid as it fell apart round the front screws. I suspect you may have done this already but in case. When I replaced mine from ebay I added a fillet of nonails inside in each of the front corners of the fusebox lid to strenghten it. Long term will tell if it works.
___________________________________________
McF
A swift word of warning (from personal experience) to anyone adding new handlebars.
Measure both sides of you handlebars before drilling the holes for the anti-rotation pins in the switch gear - they're very different.
I only measured one side, drilled the holes and then discovered the difference and had to drill a second hole
__________________________________________________
Jake
Sheekbiker…..
Correct…. I own a NTV with tubular bars and I’ve
already fitted 50mm risers some time ago together
with longer throttle cables, brake hose and clutch cable.
Job done…
But I was just suggesting that if a Revere owner fits
Raask risers to the top of the forks then they could also
fit standard NTV tubular bars as an alternative to Laverda
pattern bars….
Raask risers , would only raise the bars by around 35mm
or so, but fitting NTV tubular bars might be a better option
because they look taller than the pattern Laverdas.
Also, Honda NTV tubular bars will already have the holes for
the anti-rotation pins in the switch gear, so the switch gear
from the Revere should just bolt straight on.
www.bustersclassic.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=RAA
_______________________________________________
enrico
I have a general question for the connoisseurs, as I'm only a newcomer into the NTV world. Also, my English is poor so I beg your pardon if I'll use some improper terms.
Here it is: I recently purchased an '89 NTV and it has that kind of handlebar in two pieces, made of alloy it seems, say not the traditional handlebar made of a single tube of chromed iron. In most pictures of later NTV I notice always the tubular handlebar instead of twe "two-pieces" type (which is the one I prefere, I was lucky to find it on my bike). Questions are:
1 - does anybody know when Honda began to mount the traditional tubular handlebar on NTV ?
2 - why did Honda do that ?
Any answer would be wellcome, thank you folks.
Enrico
_________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Hi Jake yes with the rask risers you could fit almost any bars you fancied however you would have to raise the forks through the yokes by about .25 of an inch don't think it would be a problem.
Where did you get longer cables and for what model I may want to do that mod to my 650.
Sheekbiker ( Mick ).
_________________________________________________
sheekbiker
Hi Rogeer yes a nice big clock is handy as Annie is diabetic and has to eat at the right times and if she leaves it too long she gets the shakes.
Not to mention that with the shakes comes this really angry person who jumps down my throat at every word I utter just like the famed female hormone thing .
The black object on the left of the picture is a sat nav mount which uses one of the spare left over bar mounting points.
Sheekbiker ( Mick )
________________________________________________
Jake
Hi Mick……
Cables from the Deauville will fit including clutch cable,
although the Deauville clutch cable at the engine end of
the NTV is fitted slightly differently. Longer goodridge
brake hose was already fitted.
Got throttle and clutch cables from Wemoto for a
2000 Deauville I think, although I don’t think the year
matters…. (Latest 700 Deauville might have different
cables however)…
Longer throttle cables from the Deauville do stick out
a bit on the NTV and for aesthetic reasons some people might
not like this. Personally I’m not bothered. The longer
throttle cables are routed through one of the holes
in the headlight bracket on my bike, but the cables don’t
rub or foul on anything……
Enrico, can’t help you mate… don’t know what year
Honda changed bar arrangements, but in the UK the
600 ‘Revere’ always had non-tubular bars whilst the later
650 ‘NTV’ had tubular bars and different clocks
(speedo and rev counter). I think Honda made changes
because there were complaints from consumers that
original Revere was too expensive......
www.employees.org/~tw/deauville/development.htm
