Just wondered if anyone has had experience in changing the handlebars on an NTV
The previous owner of my bike replaced the handlebars at one point as the originals suffered when the bike was dropped.
The handlebars he put on are just some cheapie ones out of a catalogue and when he drilled a hole for the locating pin for the throttle grip, he made it a bit too big so the throttle grip turns around the bar a bit!
Anyway, the bars are looking a bit tatty as the chrome plating is flaking off and I've had my eye on some tasty Renthal bars. I like the look of the coloured aluminium ones they do, with the cross-brace, which I quite fancied for mounting stuff on (GPS holder etc).
Since I've not done this before, I was wondering if anyone had any hints or experiences with fitting new bars.
Is it a 7/8" diameter for the NTV? Anyone know the standard width/sweep of your regular average bars? Any pitfalls I should look out for?
I'm guessing a drill stand is going to be the tidiest and most pain-free way of drilling holes in the bars for mounting pins...
Hi Parad0x I've learnt a few lessons on handlebar fitting (or read - I've made a few c0ck ups you might want to avoid)
First, I presume you have the 650 version with "normal" tubular handlebars? (The earlier 600 had "clip on style" two piece handlebars that bolted to the top yoke). Are your Rev counter and Speedo the same size? On the earlier models, the Rev Counter is smaler diameter.
Choose your new bars very carefully. The cable routing, especially for the throttle is an absolute pig. There is very little room to create any extra length (higher / wider bars), or indeed to decrease the length (lower / narrower bars), the cable you have got is pretty much what you have to work with.
When measuring to drill your holes, DO NOT assume that both sides are the same distance from the end of the bars - they are not. Measure, mark, check, then check again before even getting your drill out of the cupboard.
It's very awkward estimating where to put the hole on the circumference you have just marked. In the end use a mark 1 eyeball, the things that are fixed are the switchgear both sides, you can still have the brake and clutch levers set to your preferred angle.
When you're ready to drill, centre pop the spot I have an excellent spring loaded centre pop, press it against the target site and "Presto" centre popped. This helps prevent the drill bit from skating around and making a hole where you don't want it. Sometimes you can achieve this with a wrap or two of insulating tape - put this on after estimating the likely location, then mark out where you want the hole to be.
I think it's a 5mm hole (can check tomorrow if you need), use a sharp drill. If you have access to a drill stand - by far the best option, although I don't (yet!) and managed OK (on 3 sets of bars so far!!!)
Unable to recall the diameter - have you a vernier to measure your bars? If not - I can check tomorrow.
Shop will probably offer a bar rise, measured in inches - This would be difficult to measure accurately but I think I went for 1.5" on the bars that proved most comfortable.
Good luck - feedback on progress is always welcome (if not expected! ;D)
The Renthal Bars are a good choice, I tried a few different heights, they look very good and are well finished. The bracing tube is a lot smaller diameter and unlikley to be much good to mount anything heavy on, especially a GPS. The RAM mount supplied with Tom Tom and Garmin (I have a Garmin Zumo) is excellent and includes a fitting to go on the back of your clutch lever. I have mine mounted on te rear of the front brake as there is a heated grips controller on the clutch side. Click on the thumbs for a larger image.
The extra tube on braced bars may obscure your view of the warning lights and can be irritating. Take a look at my Your Tube vids:
Thanks for such a quick reply and such a long and informative post!
Yes my bike is the 650 NTV with the normal tube bars. The tip for center punching &/or drilling with a few layers of 'lecky tape or something seems like a good idea! I'll be sure to measure everything up and double check everything.
I'm actually up north at home for the new year (I drove my cage up here) so I'm not with my bike at the moment but I've been making plans for stuff to do when I get back down to Bristol
Hence why I don't know the tube diameters etc. I'll do a lot of measuring and planning (and asking, perhaps!) before I purchase a bar.
The Renthal bars' braces are detachable arent they? I know that you can buy the bars without and the braces separately - having the option to remove if I didn't like it would always be fine by me.
The GPS I'm thinking about mounting is really just my mobile phone rather than a full size GPS so it's not very large or heavy at all I have the TomTom software on my smartphone and it's very small and light. As such, it doesn't have any sort of official mounting solution so I'd have to improvise or do a bit of looking around (it's a HTC Diamond).
Another thing that would be nice to be able to mount is my dgital camera (which is also prettyy small and light). It takes nice videos and I fancied recording some trips with it, if I could make up some sort of bracket to attach it via its tripod mount.
My last post for this year! Work is finished (for 12 hours anyway) Beers are calling me - "come here, drink us" How can I resist?
When Parad0x says "up North", is it the proper "much further north and I'll get a nose bleed" North, or the one they talk about on TV News - "meanwhile in the North of England, a man in Birmingham... etc" How is Birmingham in the North, or Manchester? Living near Whitby is enough to have me classed as "bl00dy Southerner" by a lot of people (English people too!). Anyway, if it's within striking distance of North Yorks - let me know.
Tomorrow - you will get a few dimensions (if I can focus on my vernier!)
The brackets securing the bracing tube are bolted on and in theory, you could remove them and the brace, but that would leave unbraced Alloy and I suspect the advice would be - go for steel - they're stronger. A decent pair of well chromed ones are probably a similar price.
Well I'd love to hang around, but that beer shouting is becoming too much of a temptation
All the best for 2009 - let's hope it only rains overnight and someone invents a non salt based treatment for icey roads!
HY McF have a look at this web site Below is a link to the All year motorcycle website... Better to get them to do it than a DIY job, just depends on your budget... www.allyearbiker.co.uk/Bike_Protection/index.html A few of our boundary lads have had this done speak highly of them its an all weather protection for bike against nasty salt roads thy come to your home and do it also hope this helps happy new year everbody
Hi Blitzman - the all year biker site looks great. If people have little option than to ride, the prices aren't too bad either (a naked NTV should cost £45 and provide up to 12 months protection). I'll post the site on the links page.
I've had a rummage in the attic of my garage (where most of NTV#2) is currently stored.
Handlebars are 22mm Diameter = 7/8" near enough
Holes I drilled were 5mm. I found the left side controls, but no pin! I'll have to drill and fit another. I think the fit was good though.
I had tried a set of Norton Straights - fouled on tank before full lock and not very comfortable after an hour riding. Too much cable for throttle and choke
I had also tried a set of braced bars, they had 5" rise (125mm Buzzin!) at the outside of the bar and 4" (100mm) at the inside of the raise. These were very comfortable around town and for longer journeys but a bit "sit up and beg" at higher speeds. It was a pig getting the throttle and choke cable runs right so that everything worked OK lock to lock.
Post by De Graaf van Salland on Jan 2, 2009 17:46:32 GMT 1
I unfortunately dropped my bike once. One side of the handlebar hit a concrete post and it was bent a bit.
After some advice from a local motorcycle dealer I replaced it with an identical original Honda handlebar. And I'm very happy that I did.
The handlebar cost me € 120 (in 2004) and I fitted it myself. A straitforward job. Only the choke-lever was a bit difficult. The original Honda model has all the holes drilled & markings punched in it.
Have a look at my site for some photographs & tips for removal of the grips.