outlaw
Bad ass biker
Posts: 282
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Post by outlaw on Sept 25, 2010 22:57:13 GMT 1
changed the fork oil on friday when i drained it out and pumped the forks talk about shortage of oil it had abought 280/300mm of oil in them know up to the mark and riding smooth outlaw
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Post by McF on Sept 26, 2010 8:46:58 GMT 1
changed the fork oil on friday when i drained it out and pumped the forks talk about shortage of oil it had abought 280/300mm of oil in them know up to the mark and riding smooth outlaw The spec is for measurement from the top of the fork to the oil level (depending on the model, this is between 106 and 182mm). There is also guidance on how much oil this should be (depending on model between 405 and 482ml) Are your measurements for the space oil level to top of tube? If so that's quite a lot missing - Are your seals OK? There's no recommendation on how often you should change the fork oil, but as outlaw has found out, checking it and getting it right makes a big difference, so it's something worth thinking about, perhaps when you do the final drive oil? (every 24k miles).
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Post by kirriepete on Sept 26, 2010 22:39:56 GMT 1
Had a crack at this today - abject failure! Before I drain the old oil/crap out I like to make sure I can get the fresh stuff in, so ....
Trolley jack under engine to lift front clear (still working on a centre stand, watch this space...)
H'bars off and tied back
Top clamps loosened
17mm drain plug remover stuck on ratchet and HEAVE! Nothing, nada, zip, of movement there was none.
3ft breaker bar dusted off (½" drive so 3/8 adapter popped on), and HEAVE! Adapter snapped in half, fork tops did not budge.
Squirt acetone/ATF mix around fork top, apply 4ft scaffold pole to ratchet and HEAVE! Burger Hall happening except ratchet making nasty creaking noises.
Pop 17mm doohickey onto impact driver and WALLOP! Zilch except for smacking myself on the thumb ..... twice!
Give up in disgust, throw it all back together, open Cabernet Sauvignon and contemplate options.
Question for the massed minds - am I missing something? Or are my fork tops just really really REALLY tight?
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Post by McF on Sept 26, 2010 23:27:35 GMT 1
My first thought was "slacken the top yoke pinch bolts", but you said you already had!
From the sounds of things they will need some shifting - can you apply some heat to the stanchions? That may help if the outer swells a little before the "plug" gets chance to increase in size
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Post by kirriepete on Sept 27, 2010 8:43:28 GMT 1
My first thought was "slacken the top yoke pinch bolts", but you said you already had! Not just slackened, removed and opened up the clamps with a BFOS, so there's no pressure whatsoever on there from without. From the sounds of things they will need some shifting - can you apply some heat to the stanchions? That may help if the outer swells a little before the "plug" gets chance to increase in size Not keen on heating that area, to get a blowtorch onto the stanchion tops I'd need to drop the legs down below the clamps, which entails jacking the whole front end up, making it all wibbly-wobbly just when I'm trying to apply sh*tloads of torque. Think I'll keep dosing with acetone/ATF and maybe have a word with my pal on the CNC machine here at work - see if he can machine up a socket on the end of a 6ft bar, that should shift the bugger! Watch this space. I'm beginning to wonder what sort of gorilla did the bleddy things up in the first place, or did they mistake the Loctite Superglue bottle for the Loctite thread locking bottle?
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outlaw
Bad ass biker
Posts: 282
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Post by outlaw on Sept 28, 2010 9:06:32 GMT 1
do not heat the top as there are rubber rings around the bit that go into the top of the forks dam they are tight, my seal are ok just not enough oil in them ? but what i found was the left hand spacer is thicker than the right hand spacer and they are marked with a (l) and a (r) stamped on them? i also done the diff oil as well when i was there, outlaw
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Post by realnutter on Sept 28, 2010 9:53:46 GMT 1
why not fit the new oil from the bottom...thru the drain hole, with a syringe?
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Sept 28, 2010 10:46:24 GMT 1
because you can't really measure the oillevel then, plus that doesn't solve any possible leaking seals.... It's odd that the top is that tight.....mine came off quite easy....after slackening the top yoke ofcourse (yes...found out the hard way) btw taking the thing all the way out of the yokes was easy compared to removing the wheel and trimmings
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Post by kirriepete on Oct 3, 2010 20:46:48 GMT 1
Just in case anyone was losing sleep over this .... been drizzling the ATF/acetone mix around the top nuts all week, this afternoon I attacked the forks with the 4ft extension .... heeeaavve and CRACK! Got the buggers!
Seems to be that a previous owner had the strength of 10 men, but no feel for torque, also one of the top nuts showed signs of having been cross-threaded in the past, which was nice!
Anyway, thin grey wee poured out, fresh clean Rock Oil 15W fork oil poured in .... what a difference! Smooth, slightly firmer, well controlled, me likes this!
One last thing - what drain plug? Seriously, there is a flat spot on the back of both legs where a plug could go, but no drain to be seen. So, have I got legs from summat else, or was there a run of aNTy forks without a drain? Not that I care now, I'm just glorying in my wonderfully damped front end!
Now, what's next?
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Oct 3, 2010 20:59:53 GMT 1
Good job for getting them off there should be a hole at the bottom of the fork leg. When the axel is out you should find a allen bolt there (the hexacon thingy) Slacken this before taking off the top, but don't take it out yet (well....for next time) If this is missing...I would think they are different legs....as far as I know all NTV's had the same legs, only the inner spring changed slightly in length...
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outlaw
Bad ass biker
Posts: 282
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Post by outlaw on Oct 3, 2010 21:02:23 GMT 1
well done getting it loose not sure about the lack of the drain plug bolt can you post a photo so we may look? outlaw
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Post by McF on Oct 3, 2010 21:08:52 GMT 1
I had a pair of forks for aNTy which had no drain plug. Did not see the logic or sense in that!
Pleased you managed to release your nuts and get them out ;D
I'll bet your heartbeat skipped a few when you heard the crack!
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Post by kirriepete on Oct 3, 2010 21:23:58 GMT 1
Here's a piccy from the Hyenas Book of Unrelated Guesswork: Buzzin - the bolt you're talking about is number 21 - the damper rod bolt, I left that alone as I wasn't intending doing anything with the dampers this time. Outlaw - see 19? I don't, where it's supposed to be is a smooth flat surface, just like McF I don't see the sense in that, but Soichiro works in mysterious ways at times .... McF - not so much a jumpy heart, more a heartfelt "Thank F*** for that!" .... won't mention the lower clamp pinch bolt that decided to snap in half, leading to an entertaining session with ever larger drills and a dentists pick (to get the thread out at the end). Wasn't going to mention it, but I see I just did, that's the trouble with getting older, you tend to ramble a bit, so they say .......
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ED-CASE
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 172
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Post by ED-CASE on Oct 4, 2010 11:01:53 GMT 1
Changing the fork-seals on me scrapyard revival NTV 650, I ended up removing each leg, clamping them in a LARGE vice (on a frame fixed to the workshop floor with 6 7"x1" rag-bolts) and 2 pieces of pitch-pine with a 35mm hole drilled longways down the split so as to give a tight yet soft clamp... It still took about 30 seconds each leg..... (with a, freshly-charged each time, cordless rattle-gun turning a piece of round bar ground hexagonal and jammed in a hexagonal impact-socket) .....to loosen each top plug. I tightened them in the re-assembly with a sawn-off bolt-head welded to a 12"x1"x1/4" bar and a copper mallet, relatively gently I check them for slacking occasionally as I figure they were as tight as above for some reason?? (on me 650, with traditional bent-tube 'bars, the home-made tool just fits in the gap.....) All the best Ed
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Oct 4, 2010 16:26:36 GMT 1
Right....I did mean 21, and afaik # 19 isn't on my legs either.... (err...you know what I mean) The haynes manual I have didn't even mention #19 I took # 21 out like the manual said (and a few online people....can't remember) and it worked quite well....so I figured that's how it's supposed to work
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