Here's some usefu info on the Deauville that was s Sept 14, 2010 20:08:21 GMT 1
Post by outlaw on Sept 14, 2010 20:08:21 GMT 1
TYRE SIZES: FRONT = 120/70ZR 17MC(58W)
REAR = 150/70ZR 17MC (69W)
SERVICING INFORMATION (WITH PICTURES) www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/deauville/
MIRROR EXTENSIONS I bought them from the manufacturer in Germany: BERNHARD KLUMJAN, FRANZISKANERSTRASSE 6, 46342 VELEN-RAMSDORF, GERMANY. HIS E-MAIL IS: INFO@BERNIKLUMPJAN.DE TELEPHONE: +49 2863 5968 MOBILE: +49 170 464689 He does not speak much English but he gets his Dutch mate to tranlate for him. I got mine in January 2007 and sent cash - 54.68 Euros which included German VAT @ 19% + p&p via Royal Mail in a "Signed For" envelope available at any Post Office. The extensions are EXCELLENT and come with all fittings.
TAPPETS A quick money saving tip, when adjusting your tappets use a radiator drain key to hold the tappet and a spanner to lock the nut. Cheap and cheerful. Also see: www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/deauville/
CENTRE STAND Forget any thoughts of struggling to get the double springs off first - it will save your knuckles & temper. The exhaust silencer has to be removed to facilitate the removal of the fulcrum bar which will be tight. Once the clamps have been slackened off you'll see how easy it is to dis-engage the springs, with the stand now swinging free. Re-locate the springs before re-aligning the stand etc. A liberal application of anti-seizure paste to the centre-stand cross-bar tube is advisable. Sand blasting & powder coating in nice shiny black is recommended.
PETROL CONSUMPTION Riding in France on a sunday I managed 194 miles without reserve. I was panicking because open petrol stations are very rare on sundays in France. I did the last 20-odd miles practically on tick-over.
CENTRE STAND Forget any thoughts of struggling to get the double springs off first - it will save your knuckles & temper. The exhaust silencer has to be removed to facilitate the removal of the fulcrum bar which will be tight. Once the clamps have been slackened off you'll see how easy it is to dis-engage the springs, with the stand now swinging free. Re-locate the springs before re-aligning the stand etc. A liberal application of anti-seizure paste to the centre-stand cross-bar tube is advisable. Sand blasting & powder coating in nice shiny black is recommended.
A possibly useful tip: I fitted a piece of 25mm black plastic conduit (electrical stuff, available from B&Q for a couple of quid a length) to the cross tube which gets sand blasted by all the crud from the wheels. Cut to length and then slot it lengthways, prise it open and snap it on working from one end. It's a tight fit but it will go. I waxoyled the cross tube first. It could do with being slightly bigger but it was the nearest I could find. Fit it with the open slot at the bottom when the stand is up. Seems to protect it reasonably well.
AIR FILTER Experience tells us that the air filters are good for at least 20k miles.
FAIRING REPAIR I dropped my bike and broke the upper fairing. A new one was going to be £175 plus VAT, a used one from a scrapped bike £70 plus the cost of a re-spray (about £50). I found a guy on ebay who does plastic welding, he did the repair for £60 plus carriage, his workmanship is excellent and is very helpful. His name is Alan Buchanan and his number is 01294 605377. I would thoroughly recommend him.
VALVE ADJUSTMENTS “The valve clearances on my bike were check by Honda on my 16000 mile service, they were fine, I have just checked them again at 48,000 and they are still within the tolerance.”
You don't have to take the radiator off to access the front pot. You do have to drain the coolant, because the water pipes across the rocker box covers have to come off. I then take the thermostat off to give a bit more room.
RESTRICTORS Not sure about the DV, but usually with carb bikes the restrictors are simply washers fitted underneath the carbs. They usually just drop into the rubber stubs and the carbs go back in on top. You ought to be able to see them if they are there by removing the tank, airbox, then with a finger lift the carb slide and open the throttle with the twistgrip. If you see a flat plate with a hole about 1" or so in diameter then they are the restrictors. Without restrictors the inlet ports are a lot bigger, more or less the same size as the carb bores.
BEST BATTERY The YTZ14S is the best replacement. The clip-over cover gets a bit tight, but it will fit.
FORK OIL You'll need to take the front wheel out which requires you to remove the brake calipers, so the job is much easier if you remove the fork legs as well. It's quite un-scarey. After removing the wheel, remove the bolts that hold the front mudguard (fender ) to the fork leg. I would recommend doing one leg at a time so you can see how it goes back. So, loosen the top yoke clamp. Next loosen (don't undo!) the nut on top of the fork - it's much easier to do when still clamped in the bottom yoke, but you need to loosen the top yoke to undo this nut. Now loosen the bottom yoke clamp and the fork will slide out. Now you can remove the top nut (watch out, it's under spring pressure) and tip the leg upside down to drain the oil. Refill with oil to the required level (search this forum because people have tried different levels and oil viscosities) and reassemble, as they say in the trade, in reverse order.
BLEEPER FOR THE INDICATORS
A 12-volt bleeper (about 80p from Maplins) is fitted (with one self-tapper screw) onto the outside of the left-hand glove-pocket down out of sight near the steering stem. The bleeper earth wire goes to one of the petrol-tank front bolts. Now obtain 2 diodes (1N 4001 - a few pence each from Maplins) Twist together their cathode ends (the ends with the stripe)and (preferably)solder them and join the bleeper red wire to
this. Connect the other end (anode) of one diode to join the light blue wire for the right-hand winker. Similarly, connect the other diode anode to join the orange wire for the left-hand winker. Tape up/sleeve all exposed connections. NOTE: The light-blue wire and the orange winker wire can be reached under the seat towards the rear on the offside of the bike frame. You will see a bunch of wires attached to the offside top tube. Hook this out with a bit of wire and you will see the 2 required wires ready for attaching the diodes. This set up will also be okay for fitting a 12volt bright LED indicator lamp instead of the bleeper. (The LED lamp is best for me)
DV MICROFICHE www.deauvilleuk.org/doc/fiche.htm
FITTING A FACET PUMP check out:
OIL INFO There is a specific test for oils to determine wet clutch compatibility, it is shown by the marking "JASO-MA" on the container somewhere (not to be confused with JASO-MB which is for 2-stroke if I remember correctly) Car oils are not tested for JASO-MA compliance, though that's not to say they won't be OK, just that they haven't been tested. If it says JASO-MA on the tin, it'll be OK.
Also well worth greasing the gear lever pivot. Just unscrew from the frame, clean, plaster with grease & reinsert. Make sure the rubber O rings are still in place at each side of the lever. I find Castrol CL grease excellent ... its a bit lighter but supposedly water resistant (not good in a hot enviroment like wheel bearings, though) and is recommended for stuff like outboard motor pivots. I've used it in my headraces for years with good results ... stays put with minimum drag.
On advice from my dealer I fitted a new set of EBC kevlar plates and a new set of springs to my DV.
Deauville Clutch replacement I took on the task of changing the clutch myself to save money, and also because I enjoy learning more about my bike. After the change I found it to be not as bad as I thought it would be. I put in kevlar plates as I am a courier riding about 40,000 a year. The kit includes springs and cost about £60, I also bought the parts that I wanted to change when replacing the clutch. These were casing gasket, washers, nut, bearing and rtv sealant. I found that the hardest bit was getting the clutch nut off, you need to push back the indentation on the nut. Then undo the nut, this requires the bike to be in gear, use 5th gear its better than 1st. Put a piece of wood through the rear wheel, a use the correct socket with a big swivel bar. I used a 1/2" torque wrench, then you take off plates springs, and put on new plates in the correct order. Hope this helps.
IF NEEDED - Clutch holding tool dimensions: The 4 holes clear m6 bolts.
They form a square with 44mm between centres, and I put a 40mm hole through the middle to get a socket through.
98 Deauville Clutch replacement
This was how I did my bike, this might not be the quickest way, but hopefully is the easiest, time taken was 3 and a half hours, please note the Haynes manual tells you to remove one down pipe, I have a Motad and found it easier to remove the silencer as well.
Also check the clutch cable at the clutch end as mine had started to fray and had only been replaced 15,000 miles ago.
Parts used were EBC CK1230 clutch plates and EBC CSK33 clutch springs.
MEMOTO.COM do a kit which also contains the Honda nut for £60.
Soak new clutch plates in engine oil
Warm up engine and drain oil
Remove Right hand side panel
Remove right hand crash bar cover
Remove right hand fairing panel
Remove silencer and rear exhaust down pipe
De-adjust clutch cable at lever end and remove from clutch end
Remove all side cover bolts and remove side cover (you may need to carefully prise it off)
Please note there are 2 aligning dowels which need to go back in the correct holes if they fall out.
Remove the four bolts and clutch spring cover, do each bolt a bit at a time to release pressure evenly.
Next remove the nut in the centre of the clutch, the bike will need to be in gear and the rear brake applied. (do not loose the 2 washers behind it)
Remove the clutch centre and plates together, note the last plate does not go in the same slots as the other plates.
The genuine Honda plates use about three different types where as the EBC plates are all the same except for the last plate.
Replace the new clutch plates into the drum checking the metal plates between each one are not scored or blued.
Remember to put the last different plate into the other slot it came from. The clutch centre can the go back in, it may need to be wiggled to align all the plates up, also make sure the two big washers around the clutch centre are in place. Tighten the centre nut fully using a new one if possible and stake it with a centre punch. Put bike back in neutral Refit the new clutch springs and the cover. Replace the side cover, mine had no gasket, just sealant probably available from Honda but I used blue hylomar which seems to work OK. The rest is just reversal of the dismantling process (do not forget the oil)
At last, after 18 months of a badly slipping clutch, I have found the solution for less than £5.
At 20k, the clutch would start slipping if you opened the throttle a bit harshly, particularly if you were doing above about 60mph but it was still quite driveable. At 24k I took the thing apart...there was some slight wear on the friction plates but they'd only worn down a few thousands of an inch and were still within the manal service limits. The clutch pressure plate was badly scored, metal plates were discoloured but not warped and the springs seemed ok.
Anyway...at vast expense, replaced all the plates, springs, pressure plate and fitted new cable.....£160. Clutch worked fine for another 1k and then started slipping again.....in fact, after a further 3k, it was worse than it was before!!
I left it a few months until finally, I could stand it no longer and thought I must get to the bottom of it so took the thing apart again....everything appeared as it was last time with nothing obviously wrong.
The pressure plate was again scored so I stuck that on an old lathe and "faced" it up taking a few thou off saving another £35 for a replacement. Studying the plates, it appears that you only need a very small amount of wear in the plates/pressure plate/clutch centre plate surface and problems will occur...basically, the pressure plate comes up against the end of the clutch centre and presses against that, rather than the plates and clutch slip results.
I've now found that the easiest solution is to buy an extra metal clutch plate...about £5...and add that to the clutch. I put it on the outside, bearing up against the alloy clutch centre face although it will probably work if you put it next to one of the other metal plates, effectively doubling that plates thickness.
Took it on a test run and it's never been so good! Not a hint of slipping even with a passenger!
I suspect Mr Honda has designed his clutch so that we have to buy as many of his expensive spares as possible to keep him rich and happy!
Read more: www.visordown.com/forum/forummessages/mps/dt/4/UTN/66008/#ixzz0npccq7aA
FINAL DRIVE If you're talking about getting the front end of the shaft to slide into the U/J on the back of the gearbox then I know exactly what you mean, it is a right PITA to do, the problem is that when the bike is on the stand the swingarm is not in a horizontal position but angled down which makes getting the shaft to engage in the U/J on the back of the gearbox bloody awkward. First thing is you need the shaft located in the final drive unit and fit them as one. Then if you've got someone to provide an extra pair of hands, as you slowly push the shaft and drive unit forward, get your assistant to feel for the U/J through the rubber boot and then they can help to get the U/J in the right angle to let the shaft slide in, it is also important for you to slowly rotate the splines where the rear wheel locates at the same time as carefully pushing forward so that the splines on the front end of the shaft can rotate and engage with the U/J. If all else fails or you do not have a friendly assistant then you might need to unbolt the rear shock so you can then jack up the swingarm so the shaft then has a slightly straighter approach to the U/J.
SPYBALL PATRIOT ALARMS
Came back from London and the Keyfob decided not to work. Alarm active and bike left at train station on Friday evening. Spent the next 24 hours trying to get a battery for the Key fob GP11 6 Volt Alkaline 16mm. Bike shop didn’t have one Halfords didn't have one Motorsports shop didn't have one. Maplin didn't have one. No wonder they went bust, there are no batteries available for their product. 2 crocodile clips later with a 6 volt camera battery, no luck. Time to rip this alarm out after 48 hours wasted. Take off rear cowling and seat. Disconnect connector from Spyball alarm and throw that noisy rectangle thing in the Bin. There are about 12 wires but only four of them are key to get the bike up and running without the Alarm. Disconnect Battery or you may blow fuses. Trace the two wires which go back to the Engine Management Unit and rejoin them, Then trace the two wires which go back to the Solenoid and Rejoin them. Don't try and cross any of the twelve, hence the reason it's good to take of the battery or you will blow fuses if you hit a negative earth like I did. Thats when I called out Bill from Robotech Wembley 07931 390689 and landline robotech motorcycles wembley. I wish I'd have done it in the first place. Bill came out to the house with soldering gear in hand, looked at the wires, replaced the two fuses I'd blown and it was up and running in 15 minutes. Best give him a call if your pulling your hair out. Jeff Moore, Newbury 07796 604218
RADIATOR I have had run cold on my commute of 22 miles had a honda bros with temperature gauge and had all but 3 inches blanked off,ran beautifuly for 100k until I sold it. Found dv ran cold so blanked in as far as fan either side,has since run smoother and the gearbox noises seem to have all but disappeared ie. knock on nuetral power at low revs. Fan only comes on at end of commute in traffic. 220 miles to 13 litres,my theory is that radiator is designed to cool max capacity and most everyday riding only uses a small percentage. have checked thermostat all well.
PUSH RIVET FASTENER (for fixing the fairing above the radiator) is part number 91549 - MW0 - 790ZA
RECTIFIER/REGULATOR (Found this on e-bay - I don’t know if it’s true). “WILL ALSO FIT: HONDA CB500 1993-2003,VFR400 NC30 NC241989-1992,,CBR400 NC23 NC29 1986-1993 ,CB600 HORNET 1998-2001,CBR600 FM-FY 1991-2000,NT650 DEAUVILLE 1996-2004,VT750 SHADOW 1997-2004,PC800 1989-1994,CBR900 RRN-RRX 1992-1999,VTR1000 1997-2003,XL1000 VARADERO 1999-2004,REF 910 ”
For checking the charging circuits: www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm
ALTERNATOR Stick a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running & you should get upwards of 15v. Mine caps at about 14.8v anywhere from 1500rpm .. in fact, it drops off to around 14.5 once its past 2000rpm. I put this down to the voltage regulater set-up but I don't have any trouble running grips, jacket & lights full time .. still starts easily first thing.
If you get no increase in voltage once the engine is running then the charging system is awol. If the voltage regulater is getting warm then its almost certain thats where the problem lies. If it remains cool then start tracing down the wiring towards the alternater. There's a three pin connecter block situated to the rear of the rear pot, under the air box which had started to burn out on my '99 ... I just cut the burnt wire out of each side and stuck in a bullet connector, leaving the other two wires in the original block.
If you need to replace the regulator (mine went at about 15k miles, so its possible) I recommend Electrix (Google for contact details) who keep them on the shelf and are located between Oxford and Reading .. about £65 from memory. When you get it started, connect your multimeter across the battery terminals (on volts)
You should see between 13.5 and 14.5 volts with about 2-3000 rpm.
If it is over 15 or below 13 at this speed there is a problem.
CLEANING WHEELS I use WD40 for mine, seems to dissolve the oily stains and leaves a
nice clean looking surface. Future grease and dirt then wipes off easier too.
PICKING THE BIKE UP The only time I've ever had to pick my bike up, I tried the technique that they advise for picking up fallen Gold Wings. Stand with your back to the machine. Bend legs, keep your back straight. Reach behind you for the "grab hole" under the seat. Then you just kind of straighten your legs and shuffle backwards, (Put the side-stand out if the bike’s fallen on its off-side).
and it should come upright. I think there's less chance of doing your back in this way.
Fitting a new Motad exhaust
To save anyone else a bucketful of trouble do not, repeat, do not try and get the manifold into the rear cylinder with the gasket in place. With the gasket in the manifold it does not give the manifold enough depth to be able to fit the two retaining nuts. I have fitted mine without the gasket and there are no leaks. It nearly broke my heart trying to get it to fit. Motad have not done their homework with respect to allowing for the gasket being in place in the exhaust port on the rear cylinder in their design. I had problems with fitting the downpipes to the front cylinder. I noticed on the old downpipes that there was a collar. So I carefully took that off, re-used this on the new downpipes and that fitted on perfectly. I can confirm the Motad on the 650 does scrape the ground - the first time it happened to me (going over the Carter Bar) I thought there was something wrong with the bike, but the rider following me said the silencer had touched the road - he said it looked quite impressive. Upon closer inspection I can see that the exhaust is mounted quite a long way from the centre line.
There is quite a bit of space on the inside of the exhaust so I'm sure I can use some of this. I've just had a new Motad fitted to my 650. It sits further out and lower - the bracket appears to be bent away from the wheel slightly. It's definitely shorter on ground clearance as the pannier used to sit on the old silencer when partially open, but this no longer happens.
CLUTCH After making sure the cable tension / slack is correct, you could try an extra plate. If you know a breaker, see if you can prise a single plate off him and add it to those already there. It's a trick that's been effectively tried before.
PAINTED DOWNPIPES Take them off and clean off the rust (it lurks out of sight round the back of the pipes) Then gave them 3 coats of heat-resistant black - it's made specially for exhausts and is easily available. Also, I painted the back of the silencer similarly. If you replace the exhaust gaskets remember they are not the same. The front gasket is 45mm diameter (part no.18291-MN4-920). The rear gasket is 43mm diameter,(part no. 18291-MM5-860)
WINKER MODIFICATION (Safety issue)
Q) Is it possible to have the front indicators on constant light, reduced compared to blink level?
A) I have done such a conversion on my deauville I have wired them through an illuminated switch and an ignition feed. As the indicators have double filament bulbs (21w/5w) you wire up the 5watt which you can then switch on for daytime use I have checked with police and this is legal
On the right hand carb (as you sit on the bike) theres a small screw in the side of the carb body. Remove this and screw in the appropriate size adaptor from your kit. On the left hand carb there's already a vacuum take-off point with a pipe attached - just remove pipe and replace with one from the balance kit. The balance screw is under the air cleaner box,situated between the carbs and is quite sensitive - even to the weight of the screwdriver sometimes! Adjust carefully. Blip the throttle a couple of times. Re-check and for a final check swap the pipes over to check that the balancer is itself balanced! The result is usually very rewarding. The Deauville responds well to having its carbs balanced.
The air mixture screws are accessible from the left and right sides of the respective carbs - IIRC sitting lowish and towards the back. They have a cross cut in them and one is a different length to the other for some reason known only to Honda. Screw outwards (anticlockwise) to richen, probably quarter to half a turn should be enough but balance the carbs first.
I checked my carbs for balance the other day (3500 miles before required by the Service manual) and discovered they were quite a bit out. I managed eventually find out where to connect my Carbtune II balancer (£49 for a 4 tube or £34 for a two tube - you only need the 2 for the Deauville). On the r/h side facing forward there is a small screw located between the cylinder head and the carburettor inlet - remove this and screw in the adapter in the Carbtune kit. Then attach the rubber pipe. Afterwards the small screw has to be replaced. On the other side there is a small circular brass drum with a small rubber pipe coming out the front. Disconnect and connect the other Carbtune pipe to the rubber tube. I just used another adapter between the two pipes. Remove the tank, unscrew the air filter from the necks of the two carbs and lift it back. Right in front is a bright yellow balancing screw. Turn the engine on, (there should be more than enough petrol in the carbs to do the job) then turn up the idle speed to about 1100-1200 rpm and tweak the yellow screw - a little to the left to adjust the right hand tube or a little to the right to tweak the left hand tube. Until I get the manual I don't know what height the readings should be so I balanced the lowest reading to the higher
CARB: Emptying There are screws in the side of the floatbowls which open drains out of the bottom, just slacken off the screws (no need to remove completely) and the fuel runs out.
CARB: refitting Make sure when you refitted the carbs that they are sitting correctly. There are tiny slots to line up the rubber hoses with the manifold. If these not sitting correctly the carbs could be drawing air.
Re: Occasional *PHUTTTT* noise and misfire??
I had that on mine when I got it ... Three mechanics failed to sort it ... and it was driving me mad. In the end, t'was an easy fix ... There's a vacuum take-off on the LH just under the saddle-end of the tank ... that should have a pipe connecting it to the EGR valve nearby.
This thread www.deauvilleuk.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10593 has more information ... and it solved my problem nicely.
CARB: TICK-OVER ADJUSTMENT There is an idle-adjustment knob. Look through the large opening in the fairing on the left hand side (as when sitting on the bike) Look slightly upwards and backwards towards the carb and you should see a grey plastic knurled knob about 20mm diameter - use a torch. Be careful when adjusting it as your hands get perilously close to the hot cylinders. 1100-1200 is the correct setting.
FRONT ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS You can get at the bunch of wires without removing any plastics. You put your hand into vent - grab the wires - bring them to view - put in bullet connectors with extension wires attached. Fit an ordinary connector block at other ends of the wires - this will give plenty of slack to connect whatever. A bit of duct tape will stick wires to inside of fairing. I connected my heat grips this way and they were still OK 3 years later when I sold bike.
Behind the speaker cover on the LEFT hand side: Left speaker cable (white and green/white with yellow "2"-markings), key switched power (black/yellow, fuse F) and frame ground (green). The two black cables with white flags "+" and "-" lead to the heated grips.
Behind the speaker cover on the RIGHT hand side, you can find the cables for the other speaker.
PART BLANKING OFF
All other bikes I have had have run cold on my commute of 22 miles, had a honda bros with temprature gauge and had all but 3 inches blanked off,ran beautifuly for 100k until I sold it. I have found the dv ran cold so blanked in as far as fan either side, has since run smother and the gearbox noises seem to have all but disappeared ie. knock on nuetral power at low revs.Fan only comes on at end of commute in traffic. 220 miles to 13 litres, my theory is that radiator is designed to cool max capacity and most everyday riding only uses a small percentage. have checked thermostat and all is well.
Many bikes are over-cooled for British conditions, and so long as your temperature gauge is happy then there won't be a problem.
REPLACING HEADLIGHT BULB
1. Remove lockable panel.
2. Remove chrome hex screw to top of nacelle panel.
3. Remove bolt from top edge. (Nut on the nacelle.
4. Remove two screws from bottom of nacelle (normally covered by the lockable panel).
5. Pull off the nacelle. You will now have access to the rear of the headlight shell
6. Pull of the electrical connector block to the headlight.
7. Remove the rubber shield.
8. Locate the bulb clip, squeeze together where located in the holder and swing down.
9. Bulb free.
BEST HEADLIGHT BULB ‘Philips Xtreme Power’ @ £23/pair. (Nov 2008) The correct type of bulb fitment for the DV is H4
INDICATOR BULB is a 582, stop/tail is a 580. Both capless. The Lucas part no. would be e.g. LLB580, or Bosch BLB580 etc. These are both used on cars as well, so should be available from most suppliers.
1)HID (High Intensity Discharge) kits are totally illegal in UK and Europe unless your vehicle is fitted with self levelling suspension and power wash head light washers check out the small print in these adds “for off road and show use only” You would have to replace the bulbs with ordinary halogen bulbs to go for an MOT. One other thing these kits don’t mention is unless your lens and reflector are made of the correct plastic they will turn yellow with the high level of ultra violet light. Just stick to good quality bulbs.
2) One of the first jobs I did after riding my bike at night for the first time was to rip out the halogen and replace it with one of the ice-blue xeon globes. Made a hell of a difference. The whole headlight set-up on the DV just isn't quite right in the way it distributes the light on the road. Hence the driving lights.
HEADLAMP I went touring around Europe a few years ago. I rang Honda and they told me the head light isn't handed - the beam pattern is spreadout evenly with no kick up to the left. I did a lot of miles at night with no beam deflector on and no one ever flashed at me.
FOG LIGHTS I intend to fit a REAR fog light on a bracket attached to the top box mounting rack, passing the cable through a grommet. Switch will be on the bars with a LED on indicator in the N/S panel. The switch will be obtained from Hien Gerrike. As to FRONT fog lights, there are lots on the market of a good size for use on a bike; Halfords have them at around £35 a pair. Taking a peek through the front fairing holes, you can see the square tubes running down supporting the engine. Make up a bolt-on bracket with a steady out of similar square tube (Not drilled and tapped - it weakens the tube immensely) Again a switch on the bars, but feeding a relay controlled by the main beam circuitry as well (turn off on high beam). Need to calculate the total amps consumed considering that you have 1) Rear fog, 2) Front fogs, 3) Dip beam, 4) Heated grips. Could well be that you cannot run without draining the battery. I think I have only 308 Watts on my 2003.
Brembo sintered pads are very good all round.
Have been using EBC HH all round for a long time now, the honda ones where very dusty and I replaced the fronts a 8,500 miles, have found the EBC HH good for 32,000 miles easily with minimal disc wear.
Motorbike front brakes can be very hard to bleed, as you have a lot of air in the pipe, and not much fluid pumped out. The best way is to suck the fluid out of the bleed nipple with a big syringe to get things started. Without that, get some help. The plan is to squeeze the brake lever right back and hold it back, loosen the nipple, tighten the nipple, then let go of the lever. Hopefully, this will start pumping fluid through. (If you can do this by yourself, you are pretty good) Be careful that the little metal shield is in the master cylinder, above the small hole, it is there to stop a jet of fluid going up and over the bike when you squeeze the lever. (Or cover the reservoir) Try pushing the piston back with the nipple closed, this should force most of the air and fluid back up into the master cylinder. If you manage to get it working before the new seals wear out, leave it overnight, with an elastic band pulling the lever back, and bleed again. I think this sets the pistons out against the pads, but whatever it does, it certainly makes the lever firmer.
Brake discs aren't too bad a job to do yourself. BIG TIP! Get a proper 6mm half inch drive hex socket driver. A Teng or Snap-on. The cheap hex drive bits don't fit properly and you'll damage the hex head bolts.
A nice breaker bar also helps because the 6mm socket head bolts that hold the discs on are a bit tight. They are about as tight as the hex heads will stand without twisting out and failing. Honda say you should use new bolts (at nearly £3 each, 12 off). I didn't because I used the correct tool to undo them. Use thread locking compound if you reuse them. I believe that new one come pre-coated with thread locking goo. It's your decision whether to reuse or buy new.
Cheapest place to buy the discs from turned out to be my local Honda dealer because they gave me a small discount
FRONT BRAKE SWITCH The switch is located beneath the lever and is attached to the master cylinder. You can hear it click as you pull in the lever. Remove the two wires connected to it (spade connectors). The switch is held on with just one screw and a lug. Remove the screw, pull the brake lever in a bit and remove the switch. It is a black plastic box about one inch square and half inch thick. The switch's normal position is to be "on" and is switched "off" by pressing in the activater. A small plate on the brake lever keeps this pressed in until you apply the brake.
Using a small screwdriver it is possible to open the switch by levering along the join - the two halves are held together with three lugs. There are no spring-loaded bits inside to fly across the room although the small bit that activates the switch may drop out. It is then possible to see the switch contacts, looking like mini points. The "fixed" side of the contacts can be lifted out together with its spade connector and can then be cleaned up. This also gives more room the clean the moving side of the switch which needs to be done in-situ.
Once cleaned it was reassembled, fitted back onto the bike - remember to pull the brake lever in whilst locating the switch, and then reconnected. All now works perfectly and saves the £17 cost of a new switch.
REAR BRAKE PEDAL (sticking)
There was a factory recall on 03/04 bikes (don't know about other years) and the brake pedal was replaced.
(1)I've had this happen twice on my 03-22K Deauville,both times a
stripdown was needed to solve the problem.As far as I remember its just
a couple of hex-bolts +a screw inside the pannier and the complete
hanger should drop down.Dismantle/clean/pack with grease/assemble-about
1 hour should be enough though it might be a !x@#?z to slide the pedal
off the spindle.Take care when disconnecting/connecting the main pedal
spring - its not for girls.
(2) Unscrewed the 8m pedal bolts and the brake-cylinder bolts. Pedal is held on a pivot by circlip and linkeage. Didn't fancy disconnecting linkage so squirted WD 40 in which freed it up a bit. The Haynes manual isn't that clear on rear brake-pedal adjustment. The linkage to the brake-cylinder looks complicated and everything gets gundged up. Anyone having trouble with the pedal siezing, or not returning check for weak spring. I'd recommend putting a sock over the rear brake
pedal and the gear lever as the edges of them can scratch the lower fairing when positioning it.
REAR BRAKE FITTING NEW PADS
Don't waste your time - you don't need to remove any bits:
1. Gently prise the offside pad away from the disc thus pushing the pistons back into the calipers.
2. Remove the small rubber bung on the end of the rear pad retaining pin.
3. Use allen key to remove the rear pad retaining pin. Pads will now be removable - so remove them.
4. Prepare new pads, grease the retaining pin with Copperslip. Insert new pads (locate front of pad first then line up the rear end with the retaining pin).
5. Replace the retaining pin and bung.
6. Pump brake pedal to return pads to disk.
Job done - literally 5 minutes if you've done it before. Maybe a little longer the first time.
1)Remove petrol tank
2) Remove filler cap from top of thermostat (located just behind steering head). NB Engine must be cold or the coolant will explode out of the engine.
3) Remove drain screw located on the water pump. There are 5 screws going into the pump housing, all taking a 10mm spanner.One is the drain screw and is located next to the bottom left fixing screw. It is fairly obviously different from the other 4 screws. When you remove this screw the coolant will come out under quite a pressure so have plenty of paper handy and I always hold a large bowl right under the pump.
4) When coolant has finished draining replace the drain screw (do not overtighten, maybe 15nm of torque)
5)Refill with coolant at the thermostat. Use 50/50 mix of good Glycol coolant and distilled water. When the radiator is full gently squeeze the flexible water hoses to massage as much air out of the system as possible.
6) Refit cap onto thermostat housing, replace fuel tank, start engine and run for a few minutes. Stop engine and allow to cool. Remove petrol tank and coolant filler (engine must be cool) and top up coolant to very top of filler. Replace cap, petrol tank etc.
7) Top up header tank to max. line, start engine again and run until hot enough to make cooling fan run. This is just to check that the fan is working.
When you come to put the housing and pipe back on the bike you may find that the hole in the clip at the top of the pipe doesn't line up with the bolt properly. I think this is the cause of the cracking, putting undue pressure on the housing to make it fit. I elongated the hole so that I didn't have to force it.
NOTE March 2008 The new 680cc DV has BRIDGESTONE tyres fitted as original equipment:
FRONT = 120/70ZR 17M/C (58W) BT 020 F RADIAL J
REAR = 150/70ZR 17MC (69W) BT 020 R RADIAL U
I am about to have Avon Storm tyres fitted to my DV at 34,539 miles. have kept meticulious records and note that my original front tyre was changed (in Innsbruck) at 12,527 miles - it wasn't bald, but I had lost confidence in it (it's a long story involving front wheel skidding)) The original back tyre was changed at 15,916 miles. Both of these were the Michelin Macadams. The tyres that replaced them, and are now about to be replaced themselves have done: Front (Michelin Pilot) 22,012 miles, Rear (Michelin Macadam) 18,623 miles. Most of this mileage has been acquired abroad. I consider these figures to be pretty good. I hope the Avon Storms are equal to it. (I might add that I am a yawning BOF who rides very, very sedately!) KP December 2008
(1) I use the BT011E on the front (not the BT011 F!) and BT020NT on the rear,brilliant tyres both in the wet and the dry and pretty good mileage. Why not the BT011F? Thats what I was recommended both on the tyre-selector page at Bridgestone and at the dealer. I can’t find anything wrong with it but please enlighten me ;-)
(2) I run the tyres recommended on the Bridgestone website, BT011 on the
front and BT 020 on the back, take a look at the website for the exact codes for both tyres, you will need them to make sure you get the right variants.
(3) I like the bridgestones but don`t have an 020 on the front. I run around on an 52 plate dv and run with an 020 on the rear and a BT011E on the front (which was the recommended fitment last time I checked the bridgetone website). So far no problems and recently I`ve had very close call with a pedestrian doing an about turn and run straight back in front of me -against the lights I must add - without looking at Hyde Park/Constitution Hill Jct.The result for me being that I had to emergency brake whilst turning into Constitution Hill, OK I wasn`t going quick - about 15-20 mph - but the tyres did exactly what we would all hope for in such situations so I`ll be fitting them again. Only tried michelins previously which I hated and changed very quickly!
(4)Here in Oz a lot have switched to DUNLOP SPORTMAX 205's for the DV which gives plenty of grip in wet or dry conditions and return around 11,000 K's from the rear tyre.
(5) Always used Bridgestone tyres but about to try the Avon STORM-ST.
BACKFIRING (1) On starting? = weak battery.
(2) Sounds like the elusive overrun back fire rather than a mis-fire Does this mainly happen during deceleration when you quickly shut off the throttle? If so, there are several schools of thought on why this happens. Fundamentally it is un-burnt fuel getting into the exhaust and igniting on contact with an oxygen supply nearer the end of the exhaust system or a hole in the exhaust further down.
(3)My over-run backfire was caused by a faulty PAIR valve.
Regarding the backfire on my DV: I had not fitted the exhaust downpipes correctly. Since I have removed the two downpipes and re-fitted them using gasket seal, the backfire has totally gone.
EXHAUST GASKETS NOTE: the two exhaust gaskets are not the same. The front gasket is 45mm diameter part no.18291-MN4-920. The rear exhaust gasket is 43mm diameter, part no. 18291-MM5-860.
EXHAUST (CHROMING) I have used Aqua Plating for bike bits, they are in Preston at Unit 13 Aqueduct Street Mill, Aqueduct Street 01772 884801. No connection just a customer. I know some people have replaced the Honda pipes with either Predator or Gazelle in the past.
EXHAUST (S/steel cleaning) Try using Aluminum Foil with Vinegar, Just screw the foil up and tip the vinegar over the foil and rub and that should clean the offending stains. Works like a charm!
I have fitted a Motad exhaust (MVT6DK) and its definitely stainless steel. It looks great and makes a wonderful sound, especially when you close the throttle. You need to remove the rubber bung thing from the bracket which is welded to the original exhaust and fit it to the supplied bracket. Its tight but if you use some oil and then get a bit of the lip through the bracket and push and rotate at the same time it should go in.
PANNIER LIDS.(not closing properly)
(1) On mine it was just the clip that's in the lid. It appeared to have moved back which didn't quite allow the lid to latch unless I hit it hard. I loosened the clip, pulled it out and tightened it back up, job done. Took about 15 minutes.
(2) The "hoops" which latch into the catches are easily adjustable -
just a couple of screws. It does, however take a bit of fiddling to get them just Right.
TOOLS complete toolkit part number is: 89010-MBL-610. Honda plug spanner part number is: 89216-MR5-830
THROTTLE ROCKER I too was affected by an aching wrist so I bought a THROTTLE ROCKER from MPS (www.thefastone.co.uk)It allows the open palm to operate the throttle instead of having to GRIP it. It is unobtrusive and very effective and costs a mere £4.99 - Recommended.
I just bought from "Busters" a "cruise control" its simply a bit of springy plastic that clips round the twist grip and allows throttle control by simple pressure from the palm of the hand works fine and allows a more relaxed ride when on motorways I think. It is actually more sophisticated then it looks and adjusts easily but if it is what your after they do it ! Mind you it was £4.95 plus p&p a bit pricey but ok as I did order some other bits at same time. If you ring Busters their mail order number is 08702 412040 the part number is "MMCRUAID" and they call it a throttle aid ..they have a web site at www.busters-accessories.co.uk
RADIO FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
(1) Live and earth wires for the radio. The other two wires in the picture are the right-hand speaker's wires
that cross the loom to the right-hand side of the bike. Standard female
bayonet connectors. If your radio is like mine, you will need three wires to power it: live,
earth, and a "keep alive" hard wired into the battery that keeps the
unit's memory ticking over. That's all. Well, aside from the speaker
wires. I've wired speakers and a mic into my helmet, so I've mounted a
metal 5-pin din plug and a stereo plug system in under the left-hand
side of the dash. I run a metre of weather-shielded cat 5 up to the
helmet, again using a plastic (metal hurts too much in winter) 5-pin din
plug assembly. The radio/UHF/push-to-talk all plug into the back of the
dash mount. The in-helmet speakers work well at highway speed.
Remember, too, that you may need to earth the antenna somewhere or else
you get that annoying feedback from the engine. You also may get
electromagnetic interference from the antenna wire running past the top
of the spark plugs, so think about where you run the wiring.
(2) I fitted a radio/cassette to my bike yesterday. I have located it in the left hand glove compartment. I had to cut away the bottom of the box and I also cut the straps so that the lid can come right off. This is ideal when riding as I can change stations and adjust the volume. Then when I park up I put the lid back on and all is hidden. The front of the radio comes off for security too. I bought the Goodmans RDS Radio/Cass from Argos £54.99 and Pioneer speakers £19.99. A black rubber aerial £6.99. This is mounted on the front left hand side (facing forward) running up the side of
the windscreen. I have powered it directly from the battery as I didn't want to tap into the ignition system in case it messed up the HISS. It works perfectly and is a lot cheaper than the Honda system.
SEAT (LOWER) I don't know with what they replaced the original packing with but my new lower seat is very comfortable and I have not suffered from numb-bum after many hours riding around Europe. The reduction in height is very noticeable - My inside leg is 28.5" and I can get both soles of my feet on the ground wearing slippers. I can get the heels flat down too with only a slight effort - much easier in bike boots because of the larger heel.
clear.This has only happened once and I had to sit up higher to see above it. I think the cost is £73.
Everyone has a different opinion about how good TALL SCREENS are. The most popular? are the Honda tall (effective but ugly) and the MRA Vario (better looking, not quite as effective?)
Skidmarx do what they call an ST1100 style screen and it is available the same as the tall Honda one at 50cm or an extra tall one at 55cm.
I see OVER my M&P screen and the wind goes OVER my head - I am no longer constantly buffeted as I once was. The screen is concave at the top with a short wrap-around at each side. The central distance from where the screen disappears above the headlamp to the lowest part of the concave is 49cms. With this screen and my Caberg flip helmet(with sun-visor - a boon!) I am now set up perfectly. Part number:NTV650 98-03 D/tint Flip screen 348740 £35 from www.mandp.com
If you decide to shave a bit off a tall screen, might I suggest two things;
1. Shave A LITTLE off at a time. You can always shave a little more, but not any less if you've been too enthusiastic!
2. The technique I've used many times now to cut-down screens is:
Bike on centre stand. No need to remove screen.
Apply a sticky insulation tape line across screen to show the curve/line you want to cut to.
Mask screen below that line with a rag to avoid any scratches.
Use electric disc cutter (yes, really!) with a metal cutting disc, and VERY SLOWLY, cut along the top edge of your tape line.(I cannot emphasise enough that this needs to be done VERY VERY slowly).
Use electric orbital sander with very fine grit paper to remove burs/bits of melted plastic and neaten edge, and also to provide slightly "rolled" edge. If necessary, finish neatening the edge with very fine sandpaper by hand. Ride bike for a few days in a range of conditions to check if you're happy with result BEFORE you decide whether to shave any more off. Works a treat and is easy to do.
SIDE STAND Parked up on a flat hard surface using side stand. Horrified to then find bike on its side lying on the NON side-stand side. The rear tyre had gone flat with a puncture. AA came and were very helpful and was soon back on the road. The Question I have is it usual for this to happen I was surprised that the centre of gravity was altered that much by the flat to make that bike fall. Is this a common problem; is it a design fault or an expected problem? The damage looks a lot and expensive. Looks like I will need to use the insurance. Not happy as have 32 years of motoring without having to claim. Any one with similar experience or thoughts?
HANDLING (1)I Don't know if it is of any use to all of you but after coming back from a european trip I had virtually decided to change my Deauville for a sports bike because of it's lack of handling in corners and the way it just seemed to catch cross wind's and get blown about.I thought about it for a while and decided the problem lay with the castor angle so I dropped the frame down the forks until I had 9mm from the flat of the top fork nut to the top of the top fork clamp this reduced the castor angle.I also reset the rear preload to a shade hard of standard, the result is a brilliantly handling bike which doesn't get affected by cross winds and is stable at all speeds and as for the cornering well it's great. All I can say is the above worked for me. I made the adjustment about 6 weeks ago and have never looked back. It takes about ten minutes. All you need to do is slacken the two bolts that grip the forks at the top yolk and the two nuts that grip the forks at the bottom yolk. Then raise the forks up through the yolks. Measure 9mm from the top shoulder of the fork nut to the top of the top fork yolk and tighten everything up. The top fork yoke bolts are 20 Nm and the bottom yoke clamp bolts are 50 Nm.
(2) My experiments with Deauville's forks have come to an end. My conclusions are:1. ELF grade 10 fork oil works good. Without losing information from the road the front fork is much smoother now, especially in low speeds. At last my mirrors can keep their setting, no matter what road surface. 2. The 10mm forks raise really makes difference! The temptation to raise them even more is strong but I stopped to 10mm for now. 3. We do need progressive springs so as to achieve the best combination of reasonable diving and smooth performance.
Honda part N° for the upper stem-bearing is: 91015-KT8-005
Honda part N° for the lower stem-bearing is: 91016-KT8-005
A google search on those numbers are giving the standard numbers for the bearings:
91015-KT8-005 => 32005X
91016-KT8-005 => 32006JR
According these numbers you should be able to find the corresponding roller bearings.
These bearings are the same for the NT700
(1)Before you assume they need replacing: Put bike on the main stand.
Weight the back so the front wheel is off the ground and turn lock to lock. If the centre is notchy try tightening first. I replaced bearings at 15k and have now done 126,000 and there is no
(2) Further to the steering headstock bearings, aeons ago when rebuilding we used to adjust them as follows – This only really works well with all the cables, brake lines etc. not fitted – Bars straight ahead with bike on stand and a jack under to lift the front wheel just off the ground. Gently push the bars to the left or right and the bars should just fall on their own. Tighten cones – or whatever – till they just do not (no heavy pre-load) then back off till they do! Everything should be nice and smooth and the same on both sides. This checks the steering stem and all bearing races. If you feel a notch in a particular place, a race is suspect. If the notch moves or clicks then one of the ball-bearings may be dodgy.
(3) TOOL (a) A piece of 1 7/8"galvanised steel pipe which happened to be "in stock", cut to leave 4 pegs at the end, a plate and a sacrificial socket welded on the other end. OK so it's not something you can do in the kitchen, but if you have some tools it's do-able. (b)It is dead easy to make the correct 'spanner' to do the headstock out of 6" of scaffold tube, a hack saw and a file.
Get Tapered bearings they last a lot longer than the standard type and are easier to adjust. Try Wemoto, I think they do a set for about £30.
When fitting tapered bearings use plenty of grease. I find Castrol CL grease excellent - its a bit lighter but supposedly water resistant (not good in a hot enviroment like wheel bearings, though) and is recommended for stuff like outboard motor pivots. I've used it in my headraces for years with good results ... stays put with minimum drag. Ensure that the new seats are FULLY knocked in. After a couple of hundred miles, retighten the steering head as the whole set of parts will bed in and settle. If you don't re-adjust them a while after fitting, you'll get steering flutter which will eventually grow into a tank slapper if left to itself.
I've had WeMoto taper roller kits in the past and found them perfectly satisfactory. The only tricky job in fitting can be getting the old beds or seats out of the headstock. If they are reluctant and ACF50 doesn't move them, try a hair dryer, taking care not to damage any nearby components. If that fails, source up a long steel bar with a chisel end and tap tap tap with a hammer, moving round the rim of the reluctant part. Once it starts to move it should come out easily.
I've only once failed to get old bearing seats out and had to resort to hacksawing the seat 3/4 through and then 3/4 through in a different place to be able to bend it sufficiently to pop it out.
SPARK PLUGS There are 2 plugs per cylinder. I've always done it with the fairing off and balanced the carbs at same time. You will also need the plug spanner that comes with the bike's tool kit to access the very front one - it doesn't sit dead straight and you can't get at it with a normal plug spanner.
The fuel pump doesn't pump unless the engine is actually running (as opposed to being turned over on the starter trying to start it).
When I refitted and refilled the radiator today I ran the engine with the fuel tank off to warm up the cooling system. I ran it until the petrol in the fuel lines ran out and the engine died.
Refitted the petrol tank etc, got togged up to take the bike out. Knew I'd have to turn the engine over a few times on the starter to draw the fuel through. Nothing.
Fuel was being deleivered from the tank to the pump but no further. No ticking etc from the pump even when the starter was turning the engine over.
Sawed the bottom off an old redex bottle and attached the neck to the pump end of the carb petrol pipe, making a sort of funnel filled with petrol. Engine turned over and fired and immediately the pump started producing petrol all over my boots. Refitted the pipe and all was well.
Presumably this would also happen if one ran out of petrol - it's almost like having to prime a diesel or oil fired central heating system.
Added just in case anyone else comes across a similar situation and is scratching their head - or in case anyone knows why the fuel pump is set up this way?
I simply bypass the fuel pump to start the bike then reconnect it and restart....
Just to clarify, if the pump stops, fuel won't flow through it by gravity. This is likely your problem. With no pump, fuel flows by gravity, just like in the Olden Days, until the tank is about 1/4 full. The pump is there because the last 1/4 of the tank is below the carbs. Removing the pump altogether and joining the pipes is an acceptable fix, but when it runs low it will just stop.The pump only starts to run once
the ignition pick-up trigger begins to give pulses, in other words when the engine is turning. That's why I suggested starting the bike and then feeling the pump. It doesn't start pumping with just the ignition switched on.
The pump works by pulling a plunger against a spring with an electromagnet, at full stroke the contacts open which then turns off the current and the spring supplies the fuel to the carbs until it reaches the end of the stroke and the contacts close and energise the electromagnet again. As the carbs use fuel the floats drop and allow more fuel to flow in, so the pump will cycle. If the carbs are using very little fuel the pump takes a long time to cycle. If you turn the fuel tap off while the engine is running, the pump tries to "suck" but can't get any fuel so the plunger just returns empty and the pump cycles quickly.
The pump doesn't run without the engine turning for safety reasons, i.e. crash, bike on its side, engine stopped, carbs emptying onto the road, fuel pump merrily pumping away, not a good idea. Cars and injected bikes have inertia switches for similar reasons.
FUEL PUMP: NEW POINTS www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/NT_650_V2_V3_V4_Deauville/02-04/picture/Fuel_Pump_Repair_Kit_-_Point_Switch/
PUMP SWITCH MODIFICATION Get a single-pole, change-over, biased one-way switch (It doesn't HAVE to be biased, but a biased switch leaves the circuit as original, is forgetable, and there should be no quibble about modifications for insurance and crash safety) The black/blue wire going to the pump is cut and the wire going into the pump itself is extended and connected to the central contact (wiper) of the switch. The biased-on contact of the switch is connected to the remaining other half of the black/blue wire (suitably extended). The remaining switch-contact is connected to the battery +12V preferably via the accessory spare wires under the left-hand glovebox so it comes on with the ignition. The switch is mounted on an Z-shaped aluminium bracket about 25mm wide and 90mm long. This is bolted to the left side of the bike via a 6mm short bolt at one end (under the seat 'bridge' next to the rear mudguard - a suitable hole is already there) The switch itself is fitted at the other end of the bracket where it can be easily reached through the side fairing hole. RS COMPONENTS have a suitable switch: Part number: 317-831 It is a standard DPDT (double pole, double throw) ON - (ON) toggle switch and costs £13.50 - A bit expensive but it is of good quality and will last forever. I connected the same poles together to give a greater contact surface. Solder is best for all connections. I have a few in-situ pix. Any questions just ask. Kenp
FIT A DIODE ACROSS THE FUEL PUMP COIL See: www.deauvilleuk.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1113&hilit=diode
hankeln.net/freizeit/nt650v5/fue ... de_en.html
(In essence this involves soldering a 1N 1007 diode across the fuel pump coil - Anode to black wire and cathode to black/blue wire).
On my 2003 (and I believe it’s the same on other models) it should be quite an easy task to switch to reserve. The fuel pump is maybe the worst thing with the Dv. Its a very trouble-free bike, even if you ignore maintanance quite a lot, but the fuel-pump is a bad, bad story. Mine failed at 20K-something kilometres. When I feel loss of response from the throttle, I turn to reserve while running, and after a couple of seconds it runs OK again. I does this very often, almost every time before I fill the tank. I have never had any trouble with that, it is very "forgiving" :-) If you have a battery in OK condition, you shouldnt have any trouble to start it from empty petrol. If you are suspicious about the fuel-pump, you could simply disconnect it, putting the tube that goes to the carbs directly on the filter. I have used that method for a year now. A little less response on the trottle, a little uneven throttling, and if you run it very hard its possible to empty the carbs for petrol. If you want to change the pump, do not use your cash on the Honda OEM pump, it IS poor quality! You want the facet pump, good quality for less then half the ££. To change, take a look at
homepage.ntlworld.com/irene.vigurs/Brians/Service/Pump/Pump.htm and www.deauvilleuk.org/forum/ (search for facet) . The facet pump, including details, cost about £40. I'm not 100% certain of the part number but 40105 seems right its a low pressure low volume pump Contact Eurocarb Ltd in Reading they'll supply you the right one and they do mail order phone number is 01189 431180 their web site is www.dellorto.co.uk Not sure if you've had any useful replies on this, but if you take a look at www.deauvilleuk.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t