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Post by ilegalalien on Jun 11, 2012 9:05:47 GMT 1
last post sourced from... www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htmI use 5w 30.. diesel oil.. semi... my reasoning is... it's thinner on startup which will protect the cams quicker.. it's thicker at high temps which keeps it's filming qualities, also it cuts down on the "oil pump rattle on powerdown" it stays in grade longer....
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Post by gothitjulie on Jun 11, 2012 9:54:08 GMT 1
Gearbox and final drive oils for a Guzzi a black art, what do you mean? My MK1 Le Mans was not especially needy in that department from memory. From the Lario handbook - Final drive - Quantity required: 0.160 l of <<Agip Rotra MP SAE 85 W/140>> oil and 0.010 l of <<Agip Rocol ASO/R>> or <<Molykote type A>> oil. It's something to brew up. The favoured stuff currently is "strawberry milkshake". The gearbox has it's own issues, the oil is the standard SAE 85 W/140, but the amount is the problem. Anything less that the 0.9 l stated & the gearbox eats itself (75hp going through it), so, keep it at 1 litre, but then you get a gearbox venting issue & need to extend a tube up off the vent to stop it spraying all over the rear wheel. The Lario is a beast ;D The difference between a Guzzi & the NTV is in the way that an NTV sprays engine oil out of the rocker covers onto itself, wheras a Guzzi has the finesse to spray engine oil onto your boots, thus rendering them forever waterproof.
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Post by ilegalalien on Jun 11, 2012 11:53:34 GMT 1
Back in the day we used to paint our boots in engine oil.. only problem was they started to weigh a ton
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pikey
Bad ass biker
Posts: 342
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Post by pikey on Jun 11, 2012 21:08:53 GMT 1
I STILL do use oil on my boots, not hypoid gear oil though that feckin stinks!
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Post by McF on Jun 11, 2012 22:28:55 GMT 1
I think thats the wrong way around mcf, 10W is how it behaves when hot. 50W is the thickness when cold. feel free to correct me ed I spoke earlier from memory (what little remains!) I've seen illegalalien's post, but if I'm honest, my eyes glazed over by the third line (it's been a loooong day) It's a very weird thing to understand and I have seen some excellent graphs to demonstrate. I couldn't find them, but this table hopefully explains logic better. Grade...................0°C...............10°C...................40°C.................100°C 0w-40...............665cst.............354cst..................82cst................14cst 5w-40...............842cst............ 430cst..................91cst................14cst 10w-40.............874cst.............440cst .................91cst................14cst 15w-40...........1260cst.............595cst.................107cst...............14cst I obtained it from www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Multigrade-Oils.pdfand what it says to me is that for all of the grades listed, the viscosity at 100C is the same - 14cst (centistokes) and they are all XX - 40 The lower temperatures are all different as are the first part of the grades So I do think the 10W is the cold temp and the 40 is the hot temp But equally happy for someone to explain how I've got it ass about face
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pikey
Bad ass biker
Posts: 342
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Post by pikey on Jun 11, 2012 23:40:59 GMT 1
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Post by gothitjulie on Jun 12, 2012 0:09:02 GMT 1
I STILL do use oil on my boots, not hypoid gear oil though that feckin stinks! Agree about the stinking hypoid, same with fork oil. Best is used engine oil with a good bit of carbon suspended in it to keep the boots nice & black, & if you're really clever you'll use used engine oil from a diesel run on chip fat so you get that special delicate aroma too. As for the engine oil grade first number, yes, the lower that number the lower the viscosity at low temperatures (lower = better in winter). So, I run 20W50 in the lario as it never sees anything but summer temperatures & it's quite agricultural in its needs. Revere runs on 10W40 as it gets used in the winter extremes, but hey, it's an old Honda, it'll not complain much if you run it on pretty much any oil, just so long as it has enough oil. As engines age/cover vast distances, they get a bit "slack", & can often benefit from a slightly thicker oil and from avoiding running them to the red line. Also remember to give that oil time to reach all of the engine before you start putting load on it, this being especially important in winter when your oil is thicker until it warms up.
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pikey
Bad ass biker
Posts: 342
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Post by pikey on Jun 12, 2012 0:28:00 GMT 1
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