sear
Bad ass biker
Posts: 302
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Post by sear on Jan 18, 2012 0:33:07 GMT 1
Hi everyone,
Passed my test over summer and I am very pleased to now own a really lovely revere. It's an ex-courier bike, done many many miles but is still pretty d**n good for the amount of use and the age.
The only minor issue is a popping when you back off the throttle identical to this noise:
( apologies, it's not my video but it shows the backfire nicely )
My guess is that the carbs need balancing as it has been neglected quite a bit for the last few months so I'll get some gauges and sort that out, could it be anything else?
The bike does smoke a fair bit when cold but, again, it was stored outside with very little use until recently and after a fairly long ride there was no smoke/a tiny tiny amount when revving but barely noticeable and a very cold day. I don't think it's a massive issue?
Other than that, it needs new cam cover gaskets pretty badly, the rear gasket is weeping like no tomorrow, and the fork seals need doing but other than that it's just service, ride and gradually improve. Heated grips next on the list I think.
Thanks for the help, Dan
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Post by McF on Jan 18, 2012 8:57:57 GMT 1
Hi Sear, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your first (of many!) posts The only minor issue is a popping when you back off the throttle identical to this noise: In my experience the most certain culprit will be a small corrosion hole or poor seal in the exhaust system. Modern engines run so lean that the smallest of leaks in the exhaust system upset the whole balance and cause secondary detonation when you roll off the throttle. Of course carbs balanced will improve everything and a service will help too. Get your engine warmed up and then stuff your hand in a gardening glove over the end of the silencer. A well sealed exhaust will struggle and the engine will cut out. If you have a leak, you will hear the increased pressure escaping through the hole and the engine will keep on running if the hole is big enough. With two people, one can seal the silencer while the other looks for the hole. My guess is corrosion in the balancing chamber and or the seals where the front downpipes join into the balancing chamber. A small hole can be easily covered by exhaust paste, larger holes can be sorted with an exhaust bandage Good luck and do report back
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Post by kirriepete on Jan 18, 2012 10:16:49 GMT 1
Welcome to the nuthouse Dan. What exhaust is on your bike? I put a Fuel can on mine last year and I've had popping on the overrun ever since. No air leaks in the system, but the 'free breathing' nature of the Fuel can seems to encourage such hooligan behaviour - with the removable baffle out I've set off car alarms in supermarket car parks ;D Remember to set your valve clearances before balancing the carbs - a description I like to use is 'trying to get an asthmatic and an opera singer breathing in harmony'. As for gauges, here's mine: A length of aquarium tube, some ATF and a bit of scrap timber - total cost a couple of quid. Does this contraption work? Video: You'll need the wee adapters for the take-off points in the inlet stubs - I got mine from Silvers a while back, they don't appear on their website, but give them a ring and they can usually find what you need. Fork seals - word to the wise, don't bother with anything other than genuine Honda seals. For some unknown reason aftermarket ones which look identical, may even have been made in the same factory, just don't last - it was the same with the CX500/650's. Here's a link to me doing mine last summer, are yours as bad? Righto, that's all for now (I do tend to waffle on once started, so Mrs KP tells me) - get that NTV sorted and start to enjoy one of Mr Honda's finest.
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 18, 2012 13:35:46 GMT 1
"I've set off car alarms in supermarket car parks" I also run fuel and mine also has a nice pop. Also sounds great
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Post by kirriepete on Jan 18, 2012 14:03:27 GMT 1
"I've set off car alarms in supermarket car parks" I also run fuel and mine also has a nice pop. Also sounds great They do that: Baffle in.
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sear
Bad ass biker
Posts: 302
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Post by sear on Jan 18, 2012 21:25:28 GMT 1
Of course! Leaky exhaust would not be a surprise. I did try putting my hand over the exhaust, and the bike did not seem to struggle as much as I had expected, yet I hadn't had the foresight to wear a gardening glove, and I had to remove my hand fairly promptly... but Ill give it another go. I was planning to remove, patch, clean and paint the exhaust system. It is the original one and I'd quite like to keep it in reasonable condition seeing how much replacements are. Pretty sure I've got some exhaust putty somewhere, but it did take nearly a whole tub to get my old MZs down pipe to seal How much did the inlet take off stubbs cost? I'll be making an order from silvers anyway in the next couple of days so I'll get those chucked in. What diameter aquarium tubing is it (or is it all the same?) Will definately make a set up like that, absolutely ace, thanks for sharing. Does the length/amount of ATF have any effect on accuracy? Should I make sure it is of a certain length or will anything like yours do? And with NTVs, it's just the single screw you reach through the air box right? The idle is non-adjustable? Wood appear that my front brake hose is leaking as well so I'll replace that. Collecting some soft luggage this weekend, got a new (secondhand) set of leathers, spine protector, gloves, ready for some long trips very soon! Thanks for the help everyone, really, I'm very lucky to have such a wealth of information available to me. I'll try and make it along to a members ride out sometime. Thanks everyone! Dan
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Jan 18, 2012 21:44:28 GMT 1
Hi dan,
Yes the adjustment to balance the carbs is accessable through the hole in the airbox. it is a posidrive screw located at the bottom.
To be fair you can probably order a proper set or balance guages off ebay for about the same as it will cost to make that. I did, cost me about £15. And you can be sure they are properly set up.
The pop in the overrun is something you get used to. I came to love it.
Anyway kirriepete, get rid of the poncy baffle and then have some fun they sound bloody lovely. I ran mine minus baffle and loved it. Setting off car alarms was just a bonus.
ed
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Post by kirriepete on Jan 19, 2012 0:28:58 GMT 1
Inlet take-offs were only a few quid each as I recall - you'll need 'em regardless of whether you buy balance dials/gauges or do a home-brew rig like mine.
The beauty of the differential manometer (that's it's "Sunday best" name) is that it requires no calibration or setup, it only shows the difference in vacuum and doesn't give a d**n what the actual values are. Also, ATF is lighter and therefore more sensitive to minor changes than the mercury/steel rods/dials used in 'proper' gauges.
Size does matter, to an extent, the more ATF you've got in there, the more the self-damping effect. Plus, as you can see from the video, if the carbs are way out of balance the difference can be several inches. All fish tank tube I've ever bought has been the same diameter - they have standardised fittings for pumps and so forth, so that makes sense.
Idle adjustment - knurled knob accessible from the left of the bike.
Brake hose - if you're gonna be changing it out, go braided stainless, either Goodridge or HEL - I've had HEL on several bikes now, no problems and much better feel.
Smartiedarkblue - I've run it a few times with the baffle out, even more explosive on the overrun (which can be fun), but it's just too darn loud! Then consider that the area traffic Plod HQ is on my way to work .... getting on first name terms with the BiB isn't high on my list of must-do's.
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Post by thatsawkward on Jan 19, 2012 9:37:20 GMT 1
Kirriepete - fantastic gauge!! Dan - can't really add anything that these much smarter guys haven't already said... but - (in your video)... nice slippers
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vtwinfan
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 168
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Post by vtwinfan on Jan 19, 2012 9:54:46 GMT 1
cant agree more, loose that silly little baffle, I have run the revere on a straight thro for years, the xv1900 only runs on long down pipes , now that's loud.
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sear
Bad ass biker
Posts: 302
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Post by sear on Jan 19, 2012 11:28:35 GMT 1
Great, will definately myself a 'differential manometer'! thanks for the help,
and im afraid they're not my slippers! Not my video, just one that shows the same backfire.
It doesn't particularly bother me, but I'll still check the exhaust and balance the carb, want to make sure the bike is well set up.
Thanks everyone,
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sear
Bad ass biker
Posts: 302
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Post by sear on Jan 19, 2012 20:38:03 GMT 1
By the way, can anyone give me a little advice for the fork seals, my local garage has quoted me £110, and frankly, I'd MUCH rather do it myself.
Is this a particularly difficult job on NTVs, any special tools required? any common mistakes people make or anything I should be extra careful with, I've got a haynes manual in the post. I've never changed fork seals before by the way. Do you think it's somethign I could realistically do in a day?
Thanks.
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 19, 2012 22:29:40 GMT 1
Not a mechanic, but watching mine changed I did notice my mechanic put a plastic bag over the top of the forks before he slipped the seal over to remove the risk of damaging them.
The general rule seems to be only use genuine Honda seals as others don't last.
I will now hand over to others better qualified.
Rj
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Jan 21, 2012 0:41:23 GMT 1
By the way, can anyone give me a little advice for the fork seals, my local garage has quoted me £110, and frankly, I'd MUCH rather do it myself. Is this a particularly difficult job on NTVs, any special tools required? any common mistakes people make or anything I should be extra careful with, I've got a haynes manual in the post. I've never changed fork seals before by the way. Do you think it's somethign I could realistically do in a day? Thanks. Having never done it before I did mine in a few hours, that included getting them on and off But as said, make sure you have proper seals and make sure the legs aren't too pitted.....as that will make it pointless. Follow the tips in the manuals! the bottom bolt needs to be slackened before removing all the other bits tension ...... or find yourself fiddling around (as I did) Also, make sure the top yolk clamp is a bit loose....otherwise you can try what you might, but you won't get the cap to go loose. Remember the order in which the parts came out, they might not be identical to the parts on the pictures of haynes. Remember which sides go up etc.
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Post by bluecharge on Sept 27, 2012 15:31:29 GMT 1
Where can I buy the adapters for the take-off points on the inlet stubs ?? Look but I can't find any
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