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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Dec 13, 2011 18:39:30 GMT 1
If the sun ever comes out any time soon, a comparison shot in daylight would be interesting.
The supplier seemed happy with you prep, so I guess over silver is ok. That said how many layers did you do? The fairing section bottom right of shot looks a little darker? But that may have been out of the light?
Would a black fairing and matching black belly pan contrast better, if you cant match the existing red? Just a thought.
Rj.
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Post by thatsawkward on Dec 13, 2011 22:16:15 GMT 1
Okay folks, it seems I have my answers, and I did indeed do a couple of (fundamental!) things wrong... Firstly, it seems the paint colour is correct. The supplier has checked and is confident, and I believe them. But having spent some time talking to their experts (as opposed to their non-experts, who I spoke to first) its clear that I've done two things wrong during what I'm now referring to as my "practice run" So, the paint is supplied with a special metallic silver base coat. I applied 4 layers of base coat, as instructed. I then carefully did a 1200 grit wet'n'dry with plenty of soapy water, washed it and let it dry. Under normal circumstances, this would be correct. However, for this type of paint, this is categorically wrong These Candy paints absolutely rely on the un-messed-with metallic base coat to get the final result. Without it (ie applying a flat coat or, god forbid if you were stupid enough, sanding the metallic top layer off!) your result is both darker, non-metallic, non-deep-shine after lacquer etc etc. So that's mistake number 1. I should've applied 4 coats, leaving 10 minutes between coats, then let it dry at 20 degrees C for just 30 minutes before moving on to step 2. I then, on top of my carefully sanded base-coat, applied several "fine coats" of the Bourgogne Red. I gently layered for an even finish, leaving 10mins between coats. Mistake number 2. The reason the paint appears dark is partly because I sanded the silver base-coat, but also because these Candy paints don't need a "fine coat", they need an extremely "light mist" application. The point being that the colour, when applied after just 30 minutes of the metallic base-coat, "merges" with the new base-coat and forms the Candy finish. It probably only needed 2 "light mist" applications which, again, I should have left for no more than 30 minutes at 20 degrees C before rapidly applying 3 or 4 coats of the gloss lacquer in the normal way. So, for those who follow virtually all the instructions out there on applying base coats, sanding, apply top coats, sanding, then apply lacquer - forget all of that for Candy paints! So whilst it's disappointing that this is a set-back, I'm pleased I've learnt from it. I've moved on to other bits of the bike now and will return to the fairing when I feel more motivated to sand down everything and start again! Or I may just take the sodding lot up the road to a paintshop Actually, leaving the bike naked is an option.....
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Dec 13, 2011 22:36:53 GMT 1
"Or I may just take the sodding lot up the road to a paintshop" This did make me chuckle. ;D Interesting post and good to know the paint colour can be applied correctly when your project moves into delivery. Great Pilot though
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Post by thatsawkward on Jan 3, 2012 12:11:55 GMT 1
A quick update on the Powerbronze fairing paintwork.... The picture below shows the 5 samples produced (using the correct method) to match the paintwork. Although the picture probably doesn't show it, these are 5 VERY different shades of the Candy paint, and the differences are literally the DISTANCE from which the red was applied to the metallic silver undercoat. Ranging from around 6 inches to 12 inches of the fine spray. I should point out that my friend Nigel and his spray gun / garage / skills frankly made this happen - I'm now convinced that getting a Candy finish to look right with aerosols is extremely difficult/impossible, so thanks to Nigel for his help, guidance, training and equipment! And below, is the final product. This was with 2 coats of the full metallic silver undercoat (not sanded or altered in any way), followed by only 2 light coatings of the candy red (using a spray gun) and 3 coats of lacquer (applied normally, again with a spray gun). The tank and the side panel at the top of the pic are the originals (unpainted) for comparison). I'm finally really pleased with the result. There are a few little imperfections that I don't think will be visible on the bike, but I think for a newb the result is pretty good (though obviously we all know that pictures look better than the real thing....). During the sample spraying, the finish with the spray gun versus the aerosols was massively different - the aerosols simply didn't seem capable of getting the right finish (or I wasn't capable!). I've never used a spray gun before but highly recommend them! I've now finished the wiring extensions etc and plan to start re-assembling the front end (NTV top yoke, new bars/risers/controls, re-furbished forks). I'll get pics of the forks up on the forum when they're back together this week....
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Jan 3, 2012 14:03:16 GMT 1
Very nice work. Your bike will look a picture.
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Post by McF on Jan 3, 2012 15:21:52 GMT 1
Excellent job The new paint looks a treat I did quite like the darker bronze colour but these panels look superb
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groovylee
Sheene Gold rider. Nuff said
Member of the QA team
Posts: 648
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Post by groovylee on Jan 3, 2012 17:24:30 GMT 1
i'm loving that paint job mate ;D can't wait for the final pics.
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dogman
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Posts: 32
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Post by dogman on Jan 3, 2012 22:22:47 GMT 1
right the thing with candys is the more you put on the deeper the colour you may of thought for example with just the first coat that looks close and only needed two coats of candy to match it up its very hit and miss also the silver base coat is it the same as the one honda used? as you may well know there are many different silvers' each vary in courseness of the metalic etc candys are dull but once the laquer is on then you'll get the depth i know hindsight is a wonderfull thing but ive learnt through painfull experince to do test pieces ive lost count of the number of times ive messed things up lol apart from that your bike looks lovely
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dogman
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Posts: 32
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Post by dogman on Jan 3, 2012 22:24:51 GMT 1
whoops seems i'm a bit late with this lol
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undercover
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 186
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Post by undercover on Mar 29, 2014 12:38:25 GMT 1
Hi i have a powerbronze fairing the same as jaz66 can anyone tell me if the the fairing comes with a headlight or is the original headlight fitting into the fairing.
the reason i ask is my bike got a beating with the wind we had in the uk this winter and got blown over. cracked / smashed the fairing so i am looking at putting the bike back to standard ''doubt powerbronze have any replacements although i have emailed them ''
just wondering if the light inside the fairing is the original headight for the bike and if there is any brakets i will need.
oh yeah i bought the bike last year and it had the fairing allready fitted.
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Mar 29, 2014 14:06:27 GMT 1
Undercover. You may want to start a new thread for this as it may get lost in this old thread. Happy to hello do that if you wish.
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Post by thatsawkward on Mar 29, 2014 19:01:54 GMT 1
The powerbronze colt uses the standard light but comes with replacement (extended) brackets. So you may need replacement brackets but should retain the actual lamp unit.
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undercover
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 186
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Post by undercover on Mar 30, 2014 13:13:47 GMT 1
thanks thatsawkward after reading thru the post's i slowly figured it was the original lamp in there. i dont think powerbronze supply any thing other than bellypans for ntv650's anymore i have emailed them with a reqest for a replacement screen tuv pbs-7 i wont hold my breath
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