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Post by coffeecraig on Feb 6, 2011 8:26:50 GMT 1
G'day all, My name is Craig, recently just bought a Revere M model in November last year and just love the thing, but Last week while riding she just stopped without warning. Leading up to that she was surging here and there and seem to lose power after riding at a time over 4500 revs the days before. Once I got her home stared to try and work out what had gone wrong I played around with connections tried all the fuses nothing Then it stared gave a few revs" Yes its back" left it idling then she stopped, try to start again nothing, run it flat. Charged the battery and started testing. Started with the Fuel Pump, jumped it at the Relay connection, the pump worked Started the spark plug test Used a new plug in the leads, Nothing Tried all leads Nothing, NO SPARK Went to the Ignition Kill Switch, It works Tested the Side Stand Switch, It works Tested the HT Coils Rear Primary 2.5 secondary w/leads 33.6 all good Front Primary 2.5 secondary w/leads 34.0 all good Tested the Pulse Gen Coils at the connections Both 459 ohms Done a continuity check of the Pulse Gen Coil wires from the connection back to the ICU, all good At the ICU the only active wires that lit the test light were Blue/Yellow Black/White Yellow/Blue I don't know if more are suppose to be active Still NO Spark why ? I'm under the impression its the ICU, I would really appreciate anybodies feedback Thanking yous in advance Craig
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Post by McF on Feb 6, 2011 10:13:19 GMT 1
Well it certainly sounds electrical - which puts me in my weakest area and it certainly sounds as though it is something common to both cylinders, so that helps rule a few things out, but also points the finger to a few areas that may be a little tricky. If it is the ICU (and sounds like it could be the culprit), the easiest way I can think of to eliminate this is to swop with one that is known to be working. Otherwise it sounds like a professional job to me How common is aNTy in Oz? Are parts like this available on Fleabay?
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Post by coffeecraig on Feb 6, 2011 10:22:43 GMT 1
sometimes I think they are as common as rocking horse nuts, but I have seen the odd one or two parts for them here on ebay but I think it would be easier for me to get parts overseas
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Post by rj2para (Bisto) on Feb 6, 2011 10:42:39 GMT 1
I had a similar problem with mine early on and it resulted in the replacement of 'I think the lead from the battery to somewhere..' ;D I know Jack about electrics and not much more mechanically. That said I trust my mechanic and he said that these leads tend to corrode inside which was effecting stuff. We ended up splitting my entire loom looking for the problem. Hope you get her sorted soon. P.S. You see to know your way round the bike already but just in case it helps this section of the forum may be of interest. www.ntvhonda.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=test2&action=display&thread=9
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ED-CASE
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 172
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Post by ED-CASE on Feb 6, 2011 12:21:37 GMT 1
Hi, CoffeeCraig, sorry to hear of your troubles Although I mess around with "electrickery", I am only a trial and (many) errors bod However, maybe I could check some very simple things and report Quoting yours above.....
"Done a continuity check of the Pulse Gen Coil wires from the connection back to the ICU, all good At the ICU the only active wires that lit the test light were Blue/Yellow Black/White Yellow/Blue I don't know if more are suppose to be active"
Was this with engine running at all, even very roughly? Thinking of using a test-meter on my 1995 model to see if any different values to yours above [as simple as assuming that since mine runs OK, any variations might give some clues?] AFAIK, mine's a model "M" series The VIN number is RC332501### HTH Atb Ed Would that help?
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 6, 2011 14:11:56 GMT 1
i had the same problem with the surging and found the pulse coils to be at fault, however if yours check out then it could be a fault in the main ignition circuit.
I had problems with the fan cutting out when it should be on and traced the fault back to the main switched live on the back of the ignition switch.
The main starter live from here maybe broken or deterioted resulting in a signal for your tester but not sufficent when the engine is running and vibrating the wire around.
The fact that there is sometimes something there would indicate to me that the ecu is okay, when these things go there is no inbetween they are gone or not, it wouldn't run at all if it had blown, When my reg/rectifier fried mine i had nothing at all.
I would suggest looking more indepth at the live feed from the battery to the ignition switch and then back to the relay. I think you will find your fault lies in this area.
hope that helps ed
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norfolknchance
Sheene Gold rider. Nuff said
15967 mile & climbing
Posts: 783
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Post by norfolknchance on Feb 6, 2011 17:46:26 GMT 1
test the ignition wires bypass ignition at the starter seloniod............ put a screwdriver across the two main trminals
it should crank over ok........(good sign).........if u can then check for spark while doing the hotwire......... if it sparks.......ignition.....or wiring fault .................
with ignition on ..............are the lights & stuff working ?
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norfolknchance
Sheene Gold rider. Nuff said
15967 mile & climbing
Posts: 783
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Post by norfolknchance on Feb 6, 2011 17:58:14 GMT 1
Blue/Yellow........ igniter coil 1......................fuelpump Black/White..............................both coils.............................kill switch Yellow/Blue....... .igniter coil 2.....................rev counter
according to the book
on a guess id check the black/white wire or run a bypass to test
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 6, 2011 20:38:01 GMT 1
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Post by coffeecraig on Feb 7, 2011 13:05:26 GMT 1
Thanks for all the replies, You have all made me think a little bit more about the possibility's, I really don't wont to strip the whole loom that will have to be my last resort. I really really don't wont to do it When I did all my testing the bike wouldn't start, but everything else worked, from all the lights, horn, engine rolling over but no spark, just like try to start with the kill switch at off My revere is a 1990 JH2RC33U Thanks for the offer ex925,it will be interesting to learn of your results I'll check the main ignition too, thanks Smartiedarkblue, I haven't checked there The black and white wire I suspected might be the one to check but I found that it carried power right to the coils so i sort of ruled it out, but it might be worth checking out again, Thanks for the input,norfolknchance Thanks GVS, I really hope mines not the CDI but its good to know theres good 2nd hand out there Hopefully things will turn out better this weekend and I can tell ya's how good she goes,and if nothing else,at lest I've learn't a lot about my bike Cheers everyone Craig
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 7, 2011 13:56:30 GMT 1
The important bit there is RC33 So it's an NTV 650 Revere....like mine. If you need to order parts you can just use the NTV parts. The reason why it's important to know is that the Brits (and a few other countries) have a different Revere (RC22). Difference between the RC33 Revere and the 'normal' RC33 NTV are just the handlebars and clocks mostly. (and the location on the fusebox)
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Post by coffeecraig on Feb 14, 2011 11:23:17 GMT 1
Still no luck but not giving up, maybe next will be different. Thanks Buzzin for the tip thats really handy to know, thanks again
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Post by kirriepete on Feb 14, 2011 12:50:12 GMT 1
Hi Craig - I have to say that your symptoms are pretty much identical to when my old (and much missed) NX650 Dominator killed it's CDI unit. So, that would be my guess if everything else checks out. Bad news - £129 new from David Silvers ( that works out to about 210 Koalas I think) Good news - quite a few available on the devil's own auction site at prices from £20 - Clicky link to NTV CDI search - some of them even claim to deliver worldwide (aye, right!). Gotta be worth a punt, hasn't it? You're welcome
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ED-CASE
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 172
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Post by ED-CASE on Feb 16, 2011 22:49:17 GMT 1
Re my offer to check and compare, I have some advice for you................. Might be best not to take any advice from me
Long story short - mine's not firing properly either now I'm working my way through the wiring loom because it might be water ingress after riding through a very deep puddle Soon as I know anything - some might say don't hold your breath - I'll see if anything useful emerges Meantime there's lots of worthwhile advice on here from people who actually know things.... I wish you the best with your troubles ED-CASE (formerly ex925)
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ED-CASE
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 172
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Post by ED-CASE on Feb 17, 2011 12:36:07 GMT 1
NTV now running, sweetly LOTS of water and gunge lodged in all the expected places AND in LOTS of other places as well! (Reckon I have been very lucky nothing was shorted to death by this ingress of conductive fluid) Started from the front, removing, drying, cleaning, re-sealing and re-fitting one section at a time, (Before starting on the next section, in hope of finding the problem easily...................ha, ha, #######) Only fired properly again when I re-fitted the ICU and fuse-box under the right-hand panel [ Having cleaned a surprising amount of ##### out of an apparently undisturbed close-fitting rubber covered ICU ] I had re-assembled this, sealed it, and re-fitted it, only last Autumn So, CoffeeCraig, (at last...) here are the ICU results I promised, (sorry for the delay) 1 Ignition key "OFF": No dc voltage in any of the leads going into the ICU contacts 2 Ignition key "ON", red "Engine-Stop" handlebar-switch "OFF": A few ultra-low dc voltages such as 0.22 and 0.01 3 Ignition key "ON" and "Engine-Stop" "ON", engine NOT started: 12.5v.dc to 12.8v.dc at three contacts, White/Blue-stripe, Blue/Yellow-stripe, and Black/White-stripe 4 Ignition-key "ON" and "Engine-Stop" "ON", engine running: As above HTH ED-CASE
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