pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
Posts: 43
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Post by pozo on Feb 20, 2012 15:56:54 GMT 1
So, I might not have put the nut on incorrectly, as here is what happened. The thread has been completely ripped off at under 24Nm of torque... The thread on the adjuster itself seems fine, probably a much harder metal - still going to replace it though. You guys were most definitely right about not doing that with old nuts How would you recommend me to proceed with the new one? Over here it says "Whilst holding the adjuster screw firmly in position with the pliers, tighten the locknut to a good firm finger tight and then use your torque wrench - and if you don't have one, or don't use it, you must be completely mad - to tighten the locknut to 16 ft/lbs. Repeat the feeler gauge test again and re-adjust if necessary, as fully tightening the locknut can slightly reduce the valve clearance." So they use approx 22 Nm, difference between 22 and 24 shouldn't rip up the nut.
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 20, 2012 16:31:09 GMT 1
Honestly don't bother, While you are putting new parts on the threaded holes where the bolts are going into are still old, and you will end up stripping those threads.
If that happens your into big expense and a load of hassle. Go by feel they will be fine. And while getting back at it to re-check tightness is a pain in the arse, this is something you will have to do anyway, even if you use proper torque settings.
Chances are when you re-check they will be fine but it needs to be done. If you are anywhere near chesterfield i would be happy to come and help.
have fun ed
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 20, 2012 16:37:06 GMT 1
Sorry been along day, Forgot this was on about the tappet adjusters. Definatly dont do them upto the torque settings you will rip the thread out the rocker arm. As to re-checking the valve clearance and lock nut this doesnt need to be done if your happy with how you set them. I thought we were on about head bolts....... Like i said long day at work. Just use a normal flat head screwdriver and a normal 10mm ring spanner it is all you need. hope that helps. ed
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 20, 2012 16:39:24 GMT 1
Change the word screwdiver in my last post for small 4inch adjustable spanner......
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pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
Posts: 43
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Post by pozo on Feb 20, 2012 16:49:52 GMT 1
Haha thanks for the replies, I'll piece together your story from them I'm in the Netherlands my guess is that that's probably not close enough for you - but thanks for the offer! I guess I'll be spending another Saturday/Sunday checking them then. Unless: I'm not entirely clear on this bit, you mean that I should be fine not checking them after a a while? To me it seems that if anything can be rattled loose it's this, with them hammering up and down every second.
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 20, 2012 18:29:46 GMT 1
Change the word screwdiver in my last post for small 4inch adjustable spanner...... That's why there is a "modify" button in the top-right corner
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 20, 2012 19:27:45 GMT 1
didnt see that graf, sorry.
Yes once set they will be fine, you will soon know if anything has come loose as it will rattle.
ed
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pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
Posts: 43
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Post by pozo on Feb 21, 2012 23:53:07 GMT 1
Received my new nut & tappet today, I'll post the results here tomorrow afternoon hopefully Perhaps the shop I bought this, www.cmsnl.com, should be added to the suppliers list? They're not very cheap, but they do have virtually every genuine Honda part for our bikes in stock.
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pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
Posts: 43
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Post by pozo on Feb 22, 2012 16:25:36 GMT 1
The bike is back together and running OK Not great yet, but perhaps that will come after balancing the carbs, which I hope to be doing in a short while (as soon as I get my carbtune in). In the end I was stubborn and I did use a (different) torque wrench to tighten the nut up. Then I noticed you must have been right from the start GvS: I must have over torqued the nut last Sunday. With this wrench the 'click' was there a lot sooner. I'm certain the setting on my other wrench was correct, so perhaps the wrench itself has some issues... I'll test it out before I use it next. Now I know what 24 Nm feels like though so I'll be more careful in the future
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 23, 2012 21:32:59 GMT 1
Hi Pozo,
One thing you must make sure of: It's possible to set the valve clearances with the camshaft in the wrong position ! When you (accidentally) do that, the engine will run, but it'll run horribly.
Rotate the engine (the flywheel should rotate counter clock-wise, looking from the left side of the bike) and watch the valves open & close. The correct order is: 1. Watch the exhaust valve open & close 2. Watch the inlet valve open & close 3. Look for the timing mark (FT for the front cylinder & RT for the rear cylinder) Now both cam lobes (in Dutch: de nok op de nokkenas) should be pointing downwards.
I hope this helps.
GvS
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 23, 2012 21:40:51 GMT 1
Perhaps the shop I bought this, www.cmsnl.com, should be added to the suppliers list? They're not very cheap, but they do have virtually every genuine Honda part for our bikes in stock. If at all possible, I try not to buy at cmsnl, they are far too expensive !
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 24, 2012 0:33:12 GMT 1
Just like GvS I tighten the locknut by hand....always have done with my bike and my cars.... Using a screwdriver to stop the adjuster nut might work if there is a groove in it....there isn't one on mine Just the square top....I use my finger to adjust and a small pair of pliers to stop it rotating when locking it. Always annoying: check the clearance once you have tightened the locknut......it has a tendency to pull up on the adjuster.... Hmmm....even more people I want to meet on the Motorbeurs (going tomorrow as well....or should I say today? Well friday anyway) Riiiiight, might have been a good idea to read page 2 as well Yep....been there, done that .... thought it was odd they were that far off No worries....just readjust them (heck of a job getting everything off again)
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pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
Posts: 43
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Post by pozo on Feb 24, 2012 11:32:57 GMT 1
GvS: thanks, I think I have done it correctly. Several other places mentioned the simple but effective 'clacking-test', just taking the valve rockers and rattling them up and down. If you can do that, it's in the 'lobes down' position. As both one inlet valve and the outlet valve still had the tappet in, I could do that. Plus I checked the timing mark on the flywheel of course The engine is running very similar to before I put my hands on it as far as I can tell, I didn't notice any difference. I think even I would immediately hear the difference should I have done it incorrectly, right? If it's running 'horribly'? I'll be coming to Utrecht tonight and visit/sleep at my mothers' place and go to the Motorbeurs tomorrow with my friends, you enjoy yourselves!
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 24, 2012 22:28:50 GMT 1
Trust me....if you set it horribly wrong....you would know Remember to say hi to patrickilos (i did)
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patrickilos
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
NTV from hell
Posts: 24
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Post by patrickilos on Mar 9, 2012 23:30:41 GMT 1
Trust me....if you set it horribly wrong....you would know Remember to say hi to patrickilos (i did) Thanx for the handshake in Utrecht !! great to have met you
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