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Post by yellowmelos on Feb 13, 2012 14:44:03 GMT 1
Nope.. these bloody things never come out. although the top one always seems to come out easy. best bet would be to undo the top one, remove the spake plugs.. put it in gear and turn the engine that way..
unless someone has a easier method of removal ??
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pozo
Ahh! Just passed their bike test
Tech Consultant and Graphic Designer
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Post by pozo on Feb 13, 2012 15:16:44 GMT 1
Ah never really thought of that - I suppose you'd be able to rotate the engine by simply rotating the back wheel then? Will be tricky to find the flywheel markings then but I'll give it a go when I try it next (first I have to find the time to try and attempt removing the radiator, sounds like a slightly messy job). Luckily a Deauville riding friend of mine thinks he has the Honda tool for changing the spark plugs so I won't have to take the front valve cover off for changing the 'hidden' plug on the front
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 13, 2012 19:58:48 GMT 1
I undid mine last spring & I think I would have remembered if it was a left-winding thread: GvS
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 13, 2012 23:11:36 GMT 1
Ok, so mine is stuck - let's hope the inspection cover will come off Thanks for the input yellowmelos & GvS!
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patrickilos
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NTV from hell
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Post by patrickilos on Feb 14, 2012 19:59:15 GMT 1
Ah never really thought of that - I suppose you'd be able to rotate the engine by simply rotating the back wheel then? Will be tricky to find the flywheel markings then but I'll give it a go when I try it next (first I have to find the time to try and attempt removing the radiator, sounds like a slightly messy job). Luckily a Deauville riding friend of mine thinks he has the Honda tool for changing the spark plugs so I won't have to take the front valve cover off for changing the 'hidden' plug on the front Hello pozo, To acces the front bougie you just need to use 2 or 3 hinge bits on your socket set. Greetings Patrickilos
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 14, 2012 20:25:52 GMT 1
Unfortunately my tool was simply too wide to get through to the plug. I did it with the Honda tool now and that fitted - still had to use a hinge bit to get my torsion wrench on there (I also managed to sort of break the honda tool in the process: the rubber that retains the plug in the socket got shoved in too deep and it's stuck there now... Can hopefully get it back out with some pliers)
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Post by yellowmelos on Feb 15, 2012 8:48:48 GMT 1
Hi again,
to turn the engine over you only need to remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder... just makes turning the engine over easier if they are both out. also the side cover nut is not a left hand thread, i managed to get a side cover from e-bay a while ago with the center cover bolt missing.. go a new one form Fowlers honda for about £4.
also when i did me clearances ( because it's a trike ) i just put in second gear and rocked it forward until it lined up with the markings.. does not have to be exactly lined up with the mark.. as long as you can see it in the window you should be o.k.
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Post by Buzzin (^_^) on Feb 19, 2012 1:06:25 GMT 1
Ah never really thought of that - I suppose you'd be able to rotate the engine by simply rotating the back wheel then? Will be tricky to find the flywheel markings then but I'll give it a go when I try it next (first I have to find the time to try and attempt removing the radiator, sounds like a slightly messy job). Luckily a Deauville riding friend of mine thinks he has the Honda tool for changing the spark plugs so I won't have to take the front valve cover off for changing the 'hidden' plug on the front Yes! It's possible....that's how I have to do it.....as the cap on mine is pretty much fused with the cover it is in.... I tried pretty much everything to get it out, but nothing worked. Just put it in second gear, sprakplugs out and put it on the center stand....just turn the rear wheel....and you should be fine.
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 19, 2012 18:28:26 GMT 1
I had a go at it today. Turning over the engine with the rear wheel took some effort but it worked. The rear cylinder was fine, the front one had slightly too little clearance on both of the intake valves. The gauge went in but it was a lot tighter than a 'firm sliding fit' to pull out. That's when I messed up... I undid the locknut, twisted the square bit until I was satisfied with the 'firm-slidyness' of the feeler gauge fit and went on to tighten them to 24 Nm with my torsion wrench. That didn't really work which I noticed when the resistance suddenly was gone. I managed to more or less fuse the tappet & locknut together Luckily I don't seem to have damaged anything else, so this will only cost me €6 + shipping in replacement parts. How should I have done this? Should I get a tool like this one? www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Adjustment-08-0073/dp/B000JP31T8And with such a tool, how would I know when I reach the proper torsion? Both of my torsion wenches are socket-types so I can't use them here. Perhaps just tighten it as much as possible with the tool & then try again with the wrench? What I'm planning to do now: get a 4mm square screwdriver in my local hardware store, and tighten the locknut as much as possible by hand while keeping the thread steady with the driver. Then apply the torsion wrench & pray for succes...
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Post by De Graaf van Salland on Feb 19, 2012 22:06:34 GMT 1
I managed to more or less fuse the tappet & locknut together Yes, how (on earth) did you manage to do that. Have you checked your torque wrench ? Is it not perhaps set to 24 kgm instead of 24 Nm ? I never used a torque wrench when I did my valves, I just tightened it by 'feeling'. GvS
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 19, 2012 22:33:03 GMT 1
Haha no, I'm pretty sure I would have noticed if I put that much force on there - and one thing haven't ever forgot yet is to double check my wrench settings. The whole issue is in that I was turning both the locknut and the adjuster, and not just the locknut. Might have been slightly overdramatic to call it fused, but it's stuck pretty good now & I can't think of a way to loosen it up without clamping it, which I don't really want to do. As it's a pretty essential/highly loaded component, I feel better/safer by just replacing it than getting it loose with the risk it's been damaged (and damaging my valve). I just hope I can fix her up by Friday, before the Motorbeurs - if not I'll have to take the train I guess By hand worked out for you? The recommended setting of 24 Nm is quite a lot of force (more or less 8 kgf with my 25 cm torsion wrench), I can't do that with my smaller 'hand tools' (i.e. just normal spanners). My plan now is to tighten it to what I think would be around 15 Nm by hand and then put on the torque wrench.
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 19, 2012 22:39:45 GMT 1
Been inspecting it a bit closer now: I think I loosened the nut (without me noticing) almost completely all the way off, and 'reinstalled' it askew, messing up the thread. Perhaps also worth noting that I'm pretty new to all this DIY mechanical stuff. I know the theory and have the manual & tools, just never had any practice yet. That's one of the reasons I'm learning to do this DIY stuff on an older bike - I do want to be proficient in it & I know I'll probably mess up a lot less in a few months time
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Post by smartiedarkblue on Feb 20, 2012 6:51:21 GMT 1
Hi,
Just to add my 2 pence worth, I did my valve clearances a few times more out of habit than them actually needing doing.
I just used a flat head screw driver to hold the adjuster in the place i wanted it, then a small 10mm (i think) spanner, they only need to be nipped up, i never had a problem.
The thing with manufacturers torque settings is they are a setting to which the manufacturers tighten the components to when brand new. Nuts and Bolts just cant take that sort of torque when they start to age.
I once tried to torque my rear head down to the correct settings and snapped a stud. Luckily it was easily removed, and i got no where near the recomended torque on it. So i used my head and went by feel. Then 100 miles later went round them all again and gave about 1/30th of a turn on all and the head never failed in the following 65,000 miles.
So screw up the page with torque settings on as it just doesn't apply to old girls like ours.
take it easy ed
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vtwinfan
All Weather Rider, well hard
Posts: 168
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Post by vtwinfan on Feb 20, 2012 10:00:20 GMT 1
couldn't agree more, I have a pro torque wrench and cracked the fixing point on the xv1900 bat wing fairing that I imported from the states. because it was expensive I thought lets fit it properly and followed the torque settings , but they were just too tight. Same with all the manuals torque settings on engines, I don't use the wrench at all, just go by feel.
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pozo
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Post by pozo on Feb 20, 2012 11:48:11 GMT 1
Thanks for the input Since I'll be getting new replacement parts I'll still try and do them pretty tight, or would you still recommend not doing that? I was hoping to be able to replace the covers and forget about it for a while - getting to the front cylinder is a bit of a hassle as you know (draining the cooling etc, took me 3 hours to get there last Sunday), so preferably I won't open that up again for a long time after fixing it.
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