Replacing Fork Seals 1st Time

As no one else has chipped in, I'll give you a start, which I'm sure others will add to/amend:

Removal:

• Remove front wheel & mudguard
  
• Unbolt handlebars, but support in position (so you don't have to detach anything)
  
• Unscrew bolt up inside bottom of fork leg (this can be v tight, so best to have an assistant hold the bike upright!) Oil will start to drain once this is loose, so have a waste oil container ready
  
• Unscrew fork cap (again, can be v tight) and remove (watch out for spring preload pressure as you remove). Remove spacer and spring (beware, it will have oil on the bottom of it!)
  
• Prise dust seal off top of fork leg and remove spring circlip holding fork seal in
  
• Fork bottom can now be pulled off the stanchion, but will require a number of sharp pulls to dislodge fork seal and top bush
  

Install:
Similar to reverse of the above but complicated by a couple of things

• New dust seal, fork seal and top bush have to be pushed onto the stachion before the fork bottom is put back on. The bush and seal then have to be pushed back down into position. Easiest way is to remove the stanchion from the bike and use a cylindrical drift (such as a length of plastic pipe) to push the bush and seal into the fork bottom. It can be done on the bike, but it's not easy to drive them in square without damaging anything
  
• Bottom fork bolt needs to be installed and tightened before the fork is filled with new oil. The oil level is measured with the spring out and the fork compressed. Level from oil to top of fork differs depending on model variant
  

Good luck!

Remember to slacken but not remove the fork top bolts before taking the forks out of the yokes:

Slacken the top pinch bolt, leaving the lower tightened and crack off both top bolts and undo by one or two turns, they'll be very stiff and the fork stanchions are impossible to grip, and a vice will damage them.

For the bottom bolt in the fork legs, you are likely to need an airline to crack those out, or take them to a local garage to have them take them out (what I had to do on mine)

Check the piston ring on the piece you will find at the bottom end of the spring, mine had disintegrated and looked like there was never anything there in the first place!

If the fork seals don't pop straight out when you thrust the slider away from the stanchion, then the bushes inside are probably knackered and you just have to keep at it with brute force until they come out, but be sure to replace the bushes.

Fit fork gaitors if you don't mind the look, will save you lots of trouble, dead flies etc. are very acidic and eat away at the chrome and the fork seal material.

You should be fine, but if your bike is your main transport, it might be worth calling a honda dealer and asking them to get in a set of bushes and the piston ring, it'd be worth replacing them while the forks are apart and also if they are knackered and you haven't got a replacement, you're without a bike for a few days. They'll need doing some time so might as well do it now.

cannot remember for the life of me BUT the easiest way of finding the one the correct size is by asking for sump drain plug hex drives, there is a standard size car sump plug that has the same hex drive so you can buy it from Wilco, sure someone else here has the measurement, if not I'll go and measure for you later tonight.

Man after my own heart! Only thing I'd say is you need to lock the nuts VERY tight together.

Here's a link to when I did mine, bit short on technical detail but nice piccies - Click Me.

As for the fork tops, I got a 17mm hex drain plug remover for mine, then needed a 3ft breaker bar with another 4 feet of old pipe on the end to crack them open. Yes, they can be that tight! And, yes, I had slackened the top clamps....

Best of luck.

cheers for all of the info guys, i will be attempting this very soon, as my right hand fork seal has just gone